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Routes in Old Quarry Walls

A B-Boy's Alpha S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bloodstain, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cloud Surfari S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cloud Surfing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crackrock Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desparête   S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Devil's Cut S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evil Beauty (Closed Proj) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fiendish Following S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Ghetto, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happiness Is a Warm Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
People's Rock, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psychonautics S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Run For Cover S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scifentology S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Slightly Removed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tasmanian Pain Coaster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tax Evasion Haven S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Traxamillion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tree of Knowledge, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree of Life, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Winning and Losing S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: FA: Jared Incillo (TR Orig Route) FA Lead: Doug Kern (Flash) & Morgan Patterson
Page Views: 1,121 total · 27/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Sep 23, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Description

Start in the corner below the massive overhanging arete left of Crackrock Corner. Climb up the corner passing a detached block which forms a small roof and continue up the corner to a large ledge (6 Bolts). From the ledge, step left onto the dike and up into an small overlap, layback diagonally up and right past one more overlap and tenuous moves to a rest at the last overlap(3 bolts). Fire for the top, mantle to anchors (2 Bolt Rap Anchor).

Protection

9 bolts to 2 bolt rap anchor

Photos

Will McNeill
Denver, CO
Will McNeill   Denver, CO
Yesterday I watched someone fall a few moves before clipping the last bolt, and they came dangerously close to the ledge - probably less that a foot from getting hurt. I would not recommend this route unless you are very solid at the grade. Apr 1, 2016
szheng
 
szheng  
 
I thought this route was super fun and totally safe. My friends took several falls off the 2nd to last bolt and we were never concerned with hitting the ledge below. Mar 28, 2016
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Suggestions as to which bolts and where? Apr 20, 2015
Echoinfi  
 
This could be a great route if the anchor was fixed and the bolts moved a bit. Apr 18, 2015
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Hey Lief glad u checked out some of the new routes! I'm pretty sure you're saying after you clip the 2nd to last bolt you are in ledge fall range and you will die if you fall here because that's what x rated means. If thats the case I think I disagree on both fronts. BUT most importantly, I'm not at all opposed to adding another bolt. I would also note you can climb this on the left side laybacking the crack and you can also work you way up on the right side of it directly above the ledge. The bolts were put out left so you'd climb the left side and have clean falls out left. That said you're concern might be valid.

Take a look at this image of Shylo climbing after the second bolt to last bolt. At this point, Shylo is on a huge jug and is about an arms length from clipping the last bolt. The ledge is marked by the lowest yellow horizontal line. I measured the distances from his waist to that second bolt and from second bolt to last bolt and then extended those down towards the ledge. They don't appear to come close so my thought is with a bad belay or screwing up the last clip (while holding the jug) you might deck on that ledge but that's pretty typical sort of way to one could get hurt even on the most well protected routes.



Were you thinking about going from the 3rd to last bolt to the second to last bolt maybe? There could be a potential there of hitting the ledge but I don't think that's an X rated (death) fall. In the below image I drew this scenario by estimating the distance of the climber's hips to the bolt when clipping that second to last bolt and extended it down, it does come close to the ledge. If you're talking about this scenario, do you think another bolt in the green boxed area would negate the issue? Or do you think the second to last should be pulled and two more placed in that area?



I think it you fell making a clip with full length rope out on these it wouldn't be good but then that's the case with most sport climbs. I'm also not positive but I don't think the rock in the green area is solid and it might not be able to take a bolt...We'll have to check it again and see.

Either way I set it to R for now as I think it's better to be safe then sorry. Nov 5, 2014
Leif  
Fun climbing BUT dangerous. Fall from 2nd to last bolt is onto a ledge (plum line off bolt is to ledge). This is X rated as it currently stands. Perhaps an additional bolt a few feet above the second to last would keep you off the ledge. Nov 4, 2014
Echoinfi  
 
Good route. Nice and long. Oct 13, 2014
JIncillo
  5.10-
JIncillo  
  5.10-
Easy first half climbing leads up to a crux lay-back. At the final bolt reach out left for a great jug and work your feet up for an exciting dyno to the top. Or for a more exposed and fun finish work out left onto the face and reach up left for the arete working up to the anchor. Sep 27, 2014
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Nice job Doug! Sep 23, 2014

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