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Routes in Wedding Rock

Boltless Baetylus T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Contortion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deranged Sailor T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dirty Girdle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
High Tide Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Face It... T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lost Sailor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Low Tide Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Say Nada TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
North Face (Direct) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pandiculation TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Psycho Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Riptide T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seamstress TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Secret Passage TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shellfish Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Terete Arête T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wedding Night Lingerie T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 594 total, 15/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Aug 13, 2014
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Arête to the left of the Lost Sailor Dihedral. First ascent unknown, likely in the 70s, and occasionally (rarely) top roped from a ledge you can reach via down climbing 4th class from the stairs.

At the Base of the route you can start up a little 3-4rd class gulley (right) up to the 5.8- section or start the arête directly from the ground (left) 10b. The climbing on the arete is plesant with positive holds but there is very little solid protection and occasional loose holds (although most have been pulled), so just pay attention.

As for the name, Terete is a botanical term meaning "cylindrical or slightly tapering, and without substantial furrows or ridges," a perfect description of this route. Enjoy!

Protection

The protection on the bottom half is fairly straightforward. Two small offset cams are recommended. As for the top half, time to get creative and also not fall. The top half takes small offset nuts and and a few small cams if you are creative. None of it on the upper section would hold anything though. If you fall and survive, it's probably a good idea to go buy a lottery ticket. I recommend belaying the leader from the very bottom as opposed to the higher ledge above the 3-4th class blocks... more rope out and less force on your crappy gear if you fall off.

The 10b direct arete start requires a #00 and #0 TCU, or similar size.

Location

Arête to the left of the massive dihedral on the south face of Wedding Rock

Photos

Hahaaa!!! I do appreciate those Pacific storms that blew those on the P.O. Wall in the early '90s Oct 4, 2015
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
As far as placing super-reliable pro, it's remarkable what mechanically loud noises one does not hear in the midst of a tempestuous Pacific storm.... Oct 4, 2015
I've led this about eight times now, it's been a popular TR, especially for beginners. Very enjoyable moves in a beautiful location!

The gear is very difficult to find and requires a lot of creativity (tiny offset nuts and ball nuts are useful). I still miss certain hidden placements each time I do it. Either way you look at it though, the gear is terrifyingly bad. The route is R/X even with the best possible gear.

The 5.10 direct start has solid gear up to the upper arete. Oct 6, 2014