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Routes in Wedding Rock

Boltless Baetylus T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Contortion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deranged Sailor T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dirty Girdle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Great White Fright T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Tide Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Face It T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lost Sailor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Low Tide Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Say Nada TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
North Face (Direct) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pandiculation TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Principle Of Perplexity TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psycho Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Riptide T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seamstress TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Secret Passage TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shellfish Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Terete ArĂȘte T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wedding Night Lingerie T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 236 total, 7/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Apr 19, 2015
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

After climbing the easy dihedral pitch of Psycho Path or Seagull's Traverse, start your second pitch by traversing right then up on runnout easy terrain up to a 25' dihedral. Remember the belay is complete crap and you need a lot of equalized gear and a lot of creativity.

Place whatever creative gear you can get as you can as you balance your way up towards the steep part of the dihedral where you are rewarded with plentiful easy placements. After solid gear, step out left and up the arete (5.9) or stay in the thin finger crack for more of a challenge (5.10). At the top of the dihedral, follow the crack past a short crux that is much harder than it looks! The gear placed during the crux will rip out of the solid, but slick crack of there is any moisture.

20' later the gear mostly dies out as the difficulty backs off to 5.8 as you work your way up and left to the notch just to the right of the Northeast Tower.

Location

20 feet right of Psycho Path.

Protection

Standard rack up to 1" with emphasis on .3 sized gear. Sections of the crack require a lot of gear fiddling to find enough of a construction to counteract the lack of friction in the crack.

Photos

Nick Black
Arcata, CA
  5.10b/c R
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
  5.10b/c R
Another stellar route! Fun laybacking up a finger to tips crack. Placed a textbook blue tcu and it pulled under a yank test, then a solid purple tcu popped out when loaded as a directional! Very slick rock, be best to TR or sew it up super tight! Same anchor as psychopath. Jan 2, 2016
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Fantastic! Can't wait to again get on the sea-cliffs of the north coast! Apr 19, 2015