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North Face (Direct)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 3.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Wedding Rock
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Boltless Baetylus T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Contortion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Deranged Sailor T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Dirty Girdle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Great White Fright T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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High Tide Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Just Face It T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Lost Sailor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Low Tide Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Never Say Nada TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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North Face (Direct) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Pandiculation TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Principle Of Perplexity TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Psycho Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Riptide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Seamstress TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Secret Passage TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shellfish Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Terete Arête T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X |
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Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wedding Night Lingerie T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Evan Wisheropp (direct variation after vegetation grew in) |
| Page Views: | 1,089 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on May 22, 2014 |
| Admins: | Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The North Face of Wedding Rock has been neglected by many climbers because of it's somewhat inconvenient access, loose blocks, often wet face, and lack of abundant protection. I removed all/most of the loose blocks and holds, so go out and enjoy!
There are three easily confusable starts, the route proper starts on an obvious crack feature in the center of the north face. The start crosses reachy wet holds (5.7) then continues up the feature (5.4) until a short headwall (5.8 crux). It then traverses rightward below a bush where you will want to belay on comfy dirt ledge. For the second pitch, follow the dihedral features up to the high point on the wall (5.7) passing a fun layback or jam crack (5.8 second crux).
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EDIT 5/3/15: I cleaned some non-native veg and dirt from the headwall and revealed some fantastic gear placements and a few nice jugs that drop it down to just 5.8 and gets rid of the crazy runnout. Bring a #00, 0, and 1 metolius for the headwall.
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The three pitch 5.7 mentioned in the guide is the Seagull's Traverse, which starts in the corner for one pitch, traverses right at the top of the slab for a pitch (little pro), then up to the top on the northwest side: Confirmed by talking with the Seagull Traverse first ascnetionist M. Butterworth.
There are three easily confusable starts, the route proper starts on an obvious crack feature in the center of the north face. The start crosses reachy wet holds (5.7) then continues up the feature (5.4) until a short headwall (5.8 crux). It then traverses rightward below a bush where you will want to belay on comfy dirt ledge. For the second pitch, follow the dihedral features up to the high point on the wall (5.7) passing a fun layback or jam crack (5.8 second crux).
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EDIT 5/3/15: I cleaned some non-native veg and dirt from the headwall and revealed some fantastic gear placements and a few nice jugs that drop it down to just 5.8 and gets rid of the crazy runnout. Bring a #00, 0, and 1 metolius for the headwall.
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The three pitch 5.7 mentioned in the guide is the Seagull's Traverse, which starts in the corner for one pitch, traverses right at the top of the slab for a pitch (little pro), then up to the top on the northwest side: Confirmed by talking with the Seagull Traverse first ascnetionist M. Butterworth.
Shiprock, Navajolands
Shiprock, Navajolands
Arcata, CA