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Routes in Wedding Rock

Boltless Baetylus T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Contortion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deranged Sailor T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dirty Girdle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
High Tide Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Face It... T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lost Sailor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Low Tide Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Say Nada TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
North Face (Direct) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pandiculation TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Psycho Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Riptide T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seamstress TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Secret Passage TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shellfish Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Terete ArĂȘte T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wedding Night Lingerie T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Evan Wisheropp (direct variation after vegetation grew in)
Page Views: 996 total, 23/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on May 22, 2014
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The North Face of Wedding Rock has been neglected by many climbers because of it's somewhat inconvenient access, loose blocks, often wet face, and lack of abundant protection. I removed all/most of the loose blocks and holds, so go out and enjoy!

There are three easily confusable starts, the route proper starts on an obvious crack feature in the center of the north face. The start crosses reachy wet holds (5.7) then continues up the feature (5.4) until a short headwall (5.8 crux). It then traverses rightward below a bush where you will want to belay on comfy dirt ledge. For the second pitch, follow the dihedral features up to the high point on the wall (5.7) passing a fun layback or jam crack (5.8 second crux).

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EDIT 5/3/15: I cleaned some non-native veg and dirt from the headwall and revealed some fantastic gear placements and a few nice jugs that drop it down to just 5.8 and gets rid of the crazy runnout. Bring a #00, 0, and 1 metolius for the headwall.

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The three pitch 5.7 mentioned in the guide is the Seagull's Traverse, which starts in the corner for one pitch, traverses right at the top of the slab for a pitch (little pro), then up to the top on the northwest side: Confirmed by talking with the Seagull Traverse first ascnetionist M. Butterworth.

Location

Same access as Low Tide Crack

Protection

Single set of cams up to #3, with emphasis in the small cams (Set of TCUs work great). Save some .2-.3" gear for the first anchor. Gear on the second pitch is easy and straightforward.

Gear has become much easier now that the rock is cleaning out.

Photos

Nick Black
Arcata, CA
  5.8 PG13
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
  5.8 PG13
Best route at Patrick's point! short offwidth/ layback at the the top, if you're not comfortable with wider cracks a #4 is nice to have. Jul 3, 2015
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
We tossed a rope down this and TR'd out via a couple different routes; it had looked like someone had been on it before us, but who knows- good lead! May 22, 2014
Matthias, I was going to email you and see if you had any info on the route history on this old gem. I'm 90% sure the original 5.7 route is under the young bushes to the right of the headwall. If so, I guess this would need to be called North Face Direct 5.8, possibly 5.9. Either way, a gorgeous route!! May 22, 2014
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Beautiful . . . May 22, 2014