Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Evan W
Page Views: 148 total · 4/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jan 6, 2016
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Several of us have been looking at this face to the right of Pandiculation for a while trying to link the spaced out features. Much to my surprise, after scrubbing dirt off holds it eventually went, with a bit of creativity in the beta. The route has excellent movement following a line of sloping holds that zigzag the steep face. The cumulative difficulty of the moves feels more difficult than Reality Check and similar to Mutiny (at Promontory). If you skip moving left to the overhanging face and just climb straight up from the rightward arch, that is 5.10d.

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Route-finding Beta:
The route starts on a block 23' right of Pandiculation. From there, it follows the rightward arching seam, up to the shrubbery, then downclimbs the leftward seam. Then traverses left then up to the hueco where you can get a poor rest. From there, continue the overhanging compression bulge. The crux is at the bad right hand and difficult knee bar right out of the hueco.

Gear

Same anchor as Pandiculation, just redirected to the right (northeast).

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