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Routes in Wedding Rock

Boltless Baetylus T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Contortion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deranged Sailor T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dirty Girdle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Great White Fright T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Tide Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Face It T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lost Sailor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Low Tide Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Say Nada TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
North Face (Direct) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pandiculation TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Principle Of Perplexity TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psycho Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Riptide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seamstress TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Secret Passage TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shellfish Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Terete ArĂȘte T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wedding Night Lingerie T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Evan W
Page Views: 134 total · 4/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jan 6, 2016
Admins: Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Several of us have been looking at this face to the right of Pandiculation for a while trying to link the spaced out features. Much to my surprise, after scrubbing dirt off holds it eventually went, with a bit of creativity in the beta. The route has excellent movement following a line of sloping holds that zigzag the steep face. The cumulative difficulty of the moves feels more difficult than Reality Check and similar to Mutiny (at Promontory). If you skip moving left to the overhanging face and just climb straight up from the rightward arch, that is 5.10d.

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Route-finding Beta:
The route starts on a block 23' right of Pandiculation. From there, it follows the rightward arching seam, up to the shrubbery, then downclimbs the leftward seam. Then traverses left then up to the hueco where you can get a poor rest. From there, continue the overhanging compression bulge. The crux is at the bad right hand and difficult knee bar right out of the hueco.

Gear

Same anchor as Pandiculation, just redirected to the right (northeast).

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