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Routes in Wedding Rock

Boltless Baetylus T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Contortion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deranged Sailor T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dirty Girdle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
High Tide Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Face It... T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lost Sailor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Low Tide Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Say Nada TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
North Face (Direct) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pandiculation TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Psycho Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Riptide T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seamstress TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Secret Passage TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shellfish Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Terete ArĂȘte T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wedding Night Lingerie T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Unkown TR. Lead ascent evanwish?
Page Views: 239 total, 6/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Oct 6, 2014
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Deranged Sailor is a leadable route on the top rope wall left of the giant dihedral. If you are pay attention you can find small gear occasionally. After the gear dies off, go 12 feet up to the shelf, and make a delicate move to reach up and slot a solid nut above the bulge. Once that's in, you are safe and can start having fun again!

There are actually two leadable routes on this wall, the left route which is 5.9 R- (just right of the arete), and the right route 5.10a R+

This is another route that really calls for some concentration and attention to detail. The left variation is much easier.

Location

The rightward route on the top rope wall left of Lost Sailor.

Protection

very small gear! The smallest offset nuts and the smallest ball nuts. Also a small/medium nut for the bulge at the top

Photos

Nick Black
Arcata, CA
 
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
 
Fun route, TR variations to 10+, surprising long Feb 11, 2016