Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: TR FA Unknown, FLA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 462 total · 8/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Oct 6, 2014
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Deranged Sailor is the semi-leadable top rope wall left of the giant dihedral. If you are pay attention you can find small gear occasionally. There are actually two routes/variations on this wall. This page is describing them both since it's so easy to flip your rope around the bulge and top rope both.

Derranged Sailor Left:
Stay left at the bulge, but staying right of Terete Arete. Fun. 5.9 R/X

Derranged Sailor Right:
Make a rightward traverse halfway up, then go 12 feet up to the shelf, and make a delicate move to reach up and slot a solid nut above the bulge. Once that's in, you are safe and can start having fun again! Scary 5.10a X

Location

Wall left of the massive dihedral on the south face of Wedding Rock.

Protection

very small gear! The smallest offset nuts and the smallest ball nuts. Micro nuts, and slings to equalize gear nests make these doable.

Anchor on top for a super cozy top rope with 1-5" gear.

Photos