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Routes in Wedding Rock

Boltless Baetylus T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Contortion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deranged Sailor T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dirty Girdle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Great White Fright T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Tide Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Face It T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lost Sailor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Low Tide Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Say Nada TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
North Face (Direct) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pandiculation TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Principle Of Perplexity TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psycho Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Riptide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seamstress TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Secret Passage TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shellfish Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Terete ArĂȘte T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wedding Night Lingerie T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: TR FA Unknown, FLA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 316 total · 7/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Oct 6, 2014
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Deranged Sailor is the semi-leadable top rope wall left of the giant dihedral. If you are pay attention you can find small gear occasionally. There are actually two routes/variations on this wall. This page is describing them both since it's so easy to flip your rope around the bulge and top rope both.

Derranged Sailor Left:
Stay left at the bulge, but staying right of Terete Arete. Fun. 5.9 R/X

Derranged Sailor Right:
Make a rightward traverse halfway up, then go 12 feet up to the shelf, and make a delicate move to reach up and slot a solid nut above the bulge. Once that's in, you are safe and can start having fun again! Scary 5.10a X

Location

Wall left of the massive dihedral on the south face of Wedding Rock.

Protection

very small gear! The smallest offset nuts and the smallest ball nuts. Micro nuts, and slings to equalize gear nests make these doable.

Anchor on top for a super cozy top rope with 1-5" gear.

Photos

Nick Black
Arcata, CA
 
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
 
Fun route, TR variations to 10+, surprising long Feb 11, 2016

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