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Routes in Wedding Rock

Boltless Baetylus T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Contortion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deranged Sailor T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dirty Girdle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Great White Fright T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Tide Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Face It T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lost Sailor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Low Tide Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Say Nada TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
North Face (Direct) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pandiculation TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Principle Of Perplexity TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psycho Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Riptide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seamstress TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Secret Passage TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shellfish Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Terete ArĂȘte T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wedding Night Lingerie T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: TR FA Unknown, FLA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 301 total · 7/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Oct 6, 2014
Admins: Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

Deranged Sailor is the semi-leadable top rope wall left of the giant dihedral. If you are pay attention you can find small gear occasionally. There are actually two routes/variations on this wall. This page is describing them both since it's so easy to flip your rope around the bulge and top rope both.

Derranged Sailor Left:
Stay left at the bulge, but staying right of Terete Arete. Fun. 5.9 R/X

Derranged Sailor Right:
Make a rightward traverse halfway up, then go 12 feet up to the shelf, and make a delicate move to reach up and slot a solid nut above the bulge. Once that's in, you are safe and can start having fun again! Scary 5.10a X

Location [Edit]

Wall left of the massive dihedral on the south face of Wedding Rock.

Protection [Edit]

very small gear! The smallest offset nuts and the smallest ball nuts. Micro nuts, and slings to equalize gear nests make these doable.

Anchor on top for a super cozy top rope with 1-5" gear.

Photos

Nick Black
Arcata, CA
 
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
 
Fun route, TR variations to 10+, surprising long Feb 11, 2016

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