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Routes in Wedding Rock

Boltless Baetylus T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Contortion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deranged Sailor T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dirty Girdle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Great White Fright T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Tide Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Face It T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lost Sailor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Low Tide Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Say Nada TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
North Face (Direct) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pandiculation TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Principle Of Perplexity TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psycho Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Riptide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seamstress TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Secret Passage TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shellfish Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Terete ArĂȘte T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wedding Night Lingerie T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Matthias Holladay Richard Ludwig
Page Views: 541 total · 5/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Nov 11, 2008
Admins: Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Super classic widening thin crack over bulges.

Location

Instead of traversing left around pinnacle, scramble up and right into notch between two formations...watch the waves! Crack is on north side of Low Tide Pinnacle and often wet.

Protection

Cams, pins, stoppers.

Photos

- No Photos -
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10c R
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10c R
Top roped this after low tide crack, it was really wet and slippery, but a wonderful climb! You'd want to wait for it to be dry to lead it, the crack is already incredibly slick. Sweet jams!! Aug 11, 2014
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10c R
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10c R
The last three times I've been here its been wet! Ugh! Today I decided this was probably the most dry it will be for the rest of the season and went for the lead. It was WET!! all the way to the traverse. I mostly aimed for placing cams in the constructions, which was solid, but two cams in "textbook" paralel sided placements pulled under the yank test because they couldn't gather enough friction. It's slick!

This is definitely a sweet route!! It should get its own "wet rating" since it's more often wet that dry and your hands and feet will want to grease off of everything. Oct 6, 2014
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
 
WAY TO GO!
FINALLY A 2ND ASCENT, VERY LIKELY...
I WOULD LOVE TO SEE SOME FOTGRAFS... Oct 11, 2014
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10c R
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10c R
Thanks! Sadly we didn't get any photos (I know, surprising for me not to have photos...). I wish there were some. I also found that if you skip the traverse and go straight up past some hard moves, to follow the arĂȘte at 5.8 R, it is amazing! I called that High Tide Crack Direct. Mar 13, 2015

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