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Routes in Wedding Rock

Boltless Baetylus T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Contortion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deranged Sailor T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dirty Girdle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
High Tide Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Face It... T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lost Sailor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Low Tide Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Say Nada TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
North Face (Direct) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pandiculation TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Psycho Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Riptide T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seamstress TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Secret Passage TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shellfish Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Terete Arête T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wedding Night Lingerie T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Matthias Holladay, Richard Ludwig
Page Views: 66 total, 1/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Feb 16, 2008
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb High Tide Crack and move left on an in-cut finger traverse up desperate slopers; often wet and shady.

Location

Wedding Night is located on the southern of two pinnacles that are just north of Wedding Rock proper. Wedding Night Lingerie and High Tide Crack ascend hidden cracks on the north face, accessed from the notch. Scramble down below the east face at low tide and then up 4th into notch. Looking west the routes are on your left.

Protection

Lots of small pro, pins, cams.

Photos

- No Photos -
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10c/d PG13
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10c/d PG13
Edit:

FOUND IT!! Just as described, It's hidden from the ground, but easy to see on rappel. Fantastic route!! For other curious ones, go up High Tide Crack and at the end of the crack, instead of traversing right, traverse left on a sweet finger traverse then run-out up some very rounded over holds. Oct 9, 2015
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Naw, they were both on the South Pinnacle.

(Amazing though, that climbers in the 60's & 70's were on both these things around the same time as the FA's on Ceremonial, California Crack, etc.)

I'm waiting for his reply about what he recalls...but Richard's memories might be more or less foggier than mine...it might have been that after leading High Tide Crack, I set the TR for WNL, and placed pro on the rap, and after starting HTC, we did indeed diverge left from it to get to the top... Oct 4, 2015
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10c/d PG13
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10c/d PG13
Ah!! I think I've got it figured out now. Perhaps WNL is actually the crack going up the southeast side of the northern pinnacle from the notch. There is an old pin and sling halfway up after two parallel finger cracks.

Sadly bolting's still not allowed in the park for some odd reason.. otherwise I would have bolted Doozy and Pandiculation already. HT Direct is wild!

I think that easier route on the northern pinnacle you're mentioning is listed as "Sea Wolf" 5.10b in the Bigfoot Guide. The pins are still in the crack, and actually don't look too bad. The piton anchor on the summit is rusted out though. Supposedly to the left of that route is "Nautilus" 5.9.

THANKS for sharing!! Oct 4, 2015
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Hmmnn...

I thought the two routes were pretty distinct; I know he led the harder one of the two, and like both of them, we TR'd 1st, pre-placed pro. (pins, etc.)for the lead... His lead was harder, I think, so . . . one was really in the notch, between the pinnacles, the other was easterly, closer to the coast...

Anyway, bolt that HT Direct - likely the natural line, if you are so inclined; heck, bolt where needed on the HT crack route too!

BTW, during that time, I also led an easier route on the pinnacle to the north, which I'd thought had never been ascended, only to find old slings/rusty bolt?(I forget)at the top...I recall pounding pins on the way up... Oct 3, 2015
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10c/d PG13
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10c/d PG13
I still only see High Tide Crack, still can't find this one. There's a micro-seam on the east face above the ledge. Is that it? Sep 28, 2015
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10c/d PG13
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10c/d PG13
I'm not resting till they're all done.. I only wish I had bought a yearly pass to the park!

A few things about High Tide Crack for those interested in checking it out; the book shows the "scary" traverse right to Low Tide Crack and gives it the R rating for that, the traverse is really only 5.8 and only about 10 feet. If you've reduced your rope drag its probably the least scary part of the route. On top rope I finished the route by following the arête six feet left of Low Tide Crack. It would be a shame to not do the arête!! As for pro you can run out the arête with the two available placements, or you can just traverse right and place gear in the crack every once in a while). Aug 12, 2014
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Way to go getting on this these routes EvanWish! Great route, eh?

Yes, very dry conditions are essential.

Yes, WNL . . . hmmnnn... my memory is foggy, but left sounds right. Aug 11, 2014
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10c/d PG13
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10c/d PG13
I climbed High Tide Craxk and had trouble finding this route. Does this have the same start, then traverse left where high tide goes right? Aug 11, 2014