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Routes in Wedding Rock

Boltless Baetylus T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Contortion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deranged Sailor T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dirty Girdle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Great White Fright T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Tide Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Face It T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lost Sailor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Low Tide Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Say Nada TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
North Face (Direct) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pandiculation TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Principle Of Perplexity TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psycho Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Riptide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seamstress TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Secret Passage TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shellfish Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Terete Arête T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wedding Night Lingerie T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: First top rope ascent unknown
Page Views: 278 total · 6/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Aug 14, 2014
Admins: Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the north east arête on Wedding Rock, it is the first arête you run into on your left as you make your way towards the North spires. You are climbing directly on the arête most of the time, and reaching left to place pro. The route is mostly 5.7, then with a short 5.9 crux near the top with a mostly decent-ish #00 tcu nearby, if you have a load limiter or screamer, this is the place to use it.

Top rope access is along a small trail 30 yards climbers left of the route near a little vista point. The top rope anchor uses some less than ideal cracks, but is super solid with a large nest of gear. It is also a smart idea to at least inspect the top before leading this route to ensure you bring the gear to set a solid anchor after leading it.

If this had bolts it would be a classic beginner route.

Protection

Small cams!

The gear can be finicky, so be attentive. I tried several pieces, and the most solid arrangement gear I could get after climbing it a few times was:
#0-1 offset mastercam
#00-0 offset mastercam
#00 TCU
#00 Master cam

Photos

Evan Wisheropp
  5.9-
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.9-
More research informs me that Mark Butterworth's Lemon Aid Crack 5.9 is the crack just eight feet left of this arete. Mar 9, 2015

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