Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 585 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Evan Wisheropp and Nick Black 2016|
|Page Views:||116 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Evan Wisheropp on May 30, 2017|
|Admins:||Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe Dirty Girdle is an EPIC traverse encircling the entirety of Wedding Rock from Zig Zag Crack all the way out over the ocean and finishing up on Psycho Path crossing 35 routes. Yes, it really is 585' long and is best/safest done in eight pitches. This one is undoubtedly the longest continuous class 5 route in Humboldt County. One could increase the length by traversing a few feet more left and leading Secret Passage, which would go at 5.10a X on lead. We thought about it, but decided to go with Psycho Path 12a R- since I had it dialed. Doing it in less pitches would mean impossible rope drag or excessively dangerous falls.
A detailed pitch by pitch description is in the Patrick's Point guidebook. This route was dreamed up after rappelling and climbing every face of the rock. After working it sectionally, we found a path of best rock, best gear, and most fun. It is easy to get off route and find yourself dead-ended out over the ocean with no reliable protection, so I definitely advise checking out the guide. A pure onsight probably would not be very fun! The route passes a huge variety of gear, so the rack ends up quite large if you want decent protection.
In essence, the route starts up Zig Zag Crack and halfway up it traverses left through Shelfish Roof, and stays around the midpoint of the rock with one downclimbing pitch on the south face. On the South West Face, it crosses the bird-shit ledges, this is why you climb it in the spring; The ledges are washed off in the winter, and free of birds until the summer. After the ledges, it follows a sweet hand traverse. It looks easier to go down to a 4th class ledge, but that is a chossy dead end. Continue around to the North Face, and traverse a sloping ledge to reverse the the second pitch of Seagull's Traverse. For the final pitch, climb the second pitch of Psycho Path 12a R- to escape back to land.
The route is filled with technical route finding, tricky/finicky gear, tricky belays, occasional questionable rock, and nauseating exposure over the crashing waves below your heels. Regardless the challenges, this route is an absolute pleasure and a rush you won't forget!