Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Routes in Wedding Rock
|Boltless Baetylus T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13|
|Contortion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Deranged Sailor T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Dirty Girdle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Great White Fright T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|High Tide Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Just Face It T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Lost Sailor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Low Tide Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Never Say Nada TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|North Face (Direct) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Pandiculation TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Principle Of Perplexity TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Psycho Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Riptide T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Seamstress TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Secret Passage TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Shellfish Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Terete Arête T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X|
|Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Wedding Night Lingerie T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 585 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Evan Wisheropp and Nick Black 2016|
|Page Views:||97 total, 15/month|
|Shared By:||Evan Wisheropp on May 30, 2017|
|Admins:||Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe Dirty Girdle is an EPIC traverse encircling the entirety of Wedding Rock from Zig Zag Crack all the way out over the ocean and finishing up on Psycho Path crossing 35 routes. Yes, it really is 585' long and is best/safest done in eight pitches. This one is undoubtedly the longest continuous class 5 route in Humboldt County. One could increase the length by traversing a few feet more left and leading Secret Passage, which would go at 5.10a X on lead. We thought about it, but decided to go with Psycho Path 12a R- since I had it dialed. Doing it in less pitches would mean impossible rope drag or excessively dangerous falls.
A detailed pitch by pitch description is in the Patrick's Point guidebook. This route was dreamed up after rappelling and climbing every face of the rock. After working it sectionally, we found a path of best rock, best gear, and most fun. It is easy to get off route and find yourself dead-ended out over the ocean with no reliable protection, so I definitely advise checking out the guide. A pure onsight probably would not be very fun! The route passes a huge variety of gear, so the rack ends up quite large if you want decent protection.
In essence, the route starts up Zig Zag Crack and halfway up it traverses left through Shelfish Roof, and stays around the midpoint of the rock with one downclimbing pitch on the south face. On the South West Face, it crosses the bird-shit ledges, this is why you climb it in the spring; The ledges are washed off in the winter, and free of birds until the summer. After the ledges, it follows a sweet hand traverse. It looks easier to go down to a 4th class ledge, but that is a chossy dead end. Continue around to the North Face, and traverse a sloping ledge to reverse the the second pitch of Seagull's Traverse. For the final pitch, climb the second pitch of Psycho Path 12a R- to escape back to land.
The route is filled with technical route finding, tricky/finicky gear, tricky belays, occasional questionable rock, and nauseating exposure over the crashing waves below your heels. Regardless the challenges, this route is an absolute pleasure and a rush you won't forget!