Type: Trad, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Evan Wisheropp & Ben Flores
Page Views: 591 total · 10/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Mar 8, 2015
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

On the north face of Wedding Rock, look for the big dihedral that is the first pitch start to Mark Butterworth's Seagull Traverse. This first pitch climbs easy 5th up to a sloping ledge. Anchor with small nuts, grey TCU, and a .5" cam.

For the second pitch, continue up towards the overhanging tower over blocky terrain (5.10). You will pass a few dirt ledges... stemming will allow you to keep your hands and feet off them. You don't need to touch any dirt. Really, it's stupid easy to keep off the dirt. Once at the overhanging dihedral, place as much of the small gear as you can (micro nuts and ball nuts) before stepping off into the crux. Tense stemming ends at a committing move to an decent hold off right where you can fire in a #1 Metolius. A few more strenuous moves land you on solid ground.

Cleaning the route on solo TR took hours/days of work (and sore hips) to remove all the loose rock and dirt from the cracks, but the route is good to go. Try it out on top rope, and enjoy! If you've got it dialed, get that lead!

Location

Hike down to the north face of wedding rock and look for the large dihedral.

Protection

Gear: Doubles/Triples .2-.5”, Singles .75-3” Anchor: Nuts & .3-5”

Photos