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Routes in (b) North Face

Coup de Grace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Dorado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Grandote T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Monte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
El Whampo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elegant Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grace Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face East T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Farce T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Partners in Crime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Science Friction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Biased T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Chuck + Ellen Wilts, G Harr and B Tory 1950
Page Views: 1,944 total · 39/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Jul 29, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Climb right-facing corners, find the easiest path.


Start right of Hard Lark and left of West Lark. Take a left leaning ramp to right facing corners.




Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
Run the traditional first and second pitches together. On P3 traverse left pretty early to gain the large right-facing dihedral. I think this is the best of the Larks but many hanging belays; not great for beginners. Sep 6, 2014
Hermosa Beach, CA
matt-jensen   Hermosa Beach, CA
I agree to link:
P1 & P2. With a 70m you will get right to the top of the right facing corner with maybe 15ft to spare and good pro/seat for a belay.

P3 Immediately hard left traverse to the dihedral and up. You have the option to either short pitch and hanging belay under the shelf or go over. If you short pitch you can follow the crack up and make a small tree for the next belay. If you don't then you should stop a short distance past the shelf to a semi-painful hanging belay before the crack runs out or you will get stranded on the sandy/pine needle face.

P4 I like to go straight up and over from there, probably 5.6 to summit directly from there up to the big dead tree or follow the giant right facing corner up and right to the gulley passing some old piton. Clip to be a part of history but not for safety. Belay just below the split right and left in the gulley.

P5 I would suggest going left up loose blocky sandy climbing (instead of right) up to the giant dead tree. Sounds worse than it is but it's the least exciting pitch by far. It's hard to communicate to your partner from here so I'd work some rope tug method out in advance to signal I'm off/ your on belay. (Even that has failed for me in the past here) Jul 18, 2016
Hermosa Beach, CA
matt-jensen   Hermosa Beach, CA
If you don't have a 70m the first pitch stops about 100ft up on the left, a nice shelf with a triangular block/flake. Jul 18, 2016
Danny Check
Temecula California
Danny Check   Temecula California
This was my first real trad lead. My buddy taught me to climb and around 3 months after I started we did this route. Jon had been wanting to do it for over a year.

Once we did it we continued to do it frequently for the next year. On sept 6th 2017 Jon was on route with his brother while I stayed home to get some work done. Jon was struck and killed by rock fall on the 3rd or 4th pitch. His brother was seriously injured and is still recovering.

Be warned, this route is under one of the most loose sections of rock on tahquitz. While the route in our opinion was fantastic(a stout one for its grade I might add) it simply isnt worth dying for. The Northwest face of Tahquitz is known for its rockfall and having seen a fair amount with my own eyes and then this tragedy, I Would not recomend it. Nov 11, 2017

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