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Routes in (b) North Face

Coup de Grace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Dorado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Grandote T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Monte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
El Whampo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elegant Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grace Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face East T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Farce T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Partners in Crime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Science Friction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Biased T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Wilson, Peter Wilkening, and Chris Wegener, 1975
Page Views: 245 total · 2/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb consists of two clean, runout, low angle face pitches. Rappel back down.

Protection

bolts and some gear

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a PG13
From a quality point of view this route is highly underrated - it's a wonderful climb up a wide smooth swath of granite, the 1st pitch involves a great series of moves over an overlap then leftwards, all very exposed and worrying to gain a wandering slab thankfully up to a bolt belay. Second pitch seems holdless, but things seem to work out okay beween the sparse bolts, and a rhythm ensues. Highly recommended. Mar 4, 2006
Tradiban  
 
I liked P1. P2 was like floating up nothing through the crux which was fun but A. the line skipped the obvious weakness up and right through a thin crack so it was a bit contrived and B. it headed for a third bolt then abruptly angled left to the finish anchors when it would have been better to go straight up a nice crack to finish on newer anchors on the right or just keep going for the summit. Anyway, bring a few small cams to finish up a 5.8 crack for P2, it's sweet. Oct 8, 2014

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