Type: | Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches |
FA: | Don Wilson and Jerry Gallwas, September 1954 |
Page Views: | 1,890 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 |
Admins: | C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Route-finding on this climb is not too obvious after the first two pitches. Start in the huge, right-facing dihedral at the left end of the North Face. After about 120 feet, traverse right on small face holds to reach a large crack and easier climbing. Work upwards for several more pitches (no obvious landmarks) to reach the Northeast Shoulder.
Newport Beach
Traversing from the first belay to the 5.1 crack involves a few no-hands slab moves: if you fall here you will pendo across low angle rock, off an ancient fixed pin. Did not see the bolt shown on the guide topo. Did see an old one ~10' right of the 5.1 crack; off route.
Pitches 3 & 4 have some aesthetic slab traverses with good pro. Jun 21, 2010
Chicago, IL
From the top of the wide crack on P2 you should go more or less straight up passing two old bolts just right of a flake. Aug 27, 2014