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Routes in (b) North Face

Coup de Grace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Dorado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Grandote T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Monte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
El Whampo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elegant Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grace Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face East T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Farce T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Partners in Crime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Science Friction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Biased T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 1600 ft, 11 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joshua Reinig, Jonathan Reinig , Josh Wieberg. 2010
Page Views: 1,153 total, 23/month
Shared By: Joshua Reinig on Sep 10, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route follows the large obviouse arching overlaps, that make up the top 3rd of The North Face, ending at Who Dunnit.
Most of the route is 5.8 or easier. Crux pitch 5.10+, is the Distinguishable and Elegant, Giant Arching Right Facing Dihedral. Between upper section of, Lip up Fatty and Sahara Terror.
This Climb was a vision 6 years in the making. Trying to piece together the puzzle and make the pieces flow together, Definitely makes for an Excellent Adventure!!!

Location

Starts just right of Y crack buttress on Broken crack system, 5.7 to first pitch of El Wampo. Follow El Wampo to 5.4 roof. This is when the climbing gets exciting! At 5.4 roof step down and right one body length. Bust right following arching overlaps for 3 pitches, to Crux Pitch.
Arriving at "The Elegant Arch", follow steep 5.10- climbing, in shallow lichen filled right facing corner with a finger crack. Staying more out right on the face for about 25' to a stance/rest.
You are now at part two of this giant arching corner, "The Crux". Perfect sustained hand crack in the middle of corner for 20', with the predominate hard move at the very end pulling the bulge.
The upper and final section. Once at the top third of the Elegant Arch, "Be Mindful" even though the climbing eases up 5.8, A Scary Knife edge, rope chopping Lip looms below. This along with a giant death dagger choked in the middle of this section, make for a great mental challenge!
This Corner/Monster Dihedral brings you right into Sahara Terror, just below the 5.7 Chimney. After crux either finish up Sahara Terror. Or continue out and right, following more exfoliating overlaps to top of Who Dunnit!

Protection

Standard Tahquitz rack. SLCD up to 4". TCU's useful...

Photos

Way cool Nick!!!
Think you guys are the first to successfully completed the route since we first did it!!!
Did you get any pics you might be willing to share on here?!?
If not totally cool, it was raining the day we did it so photos kinda suck and havnt been back to get more!!! Aug 17, 2016
Tradiban  
 
Did this in 6 pitches with a 70, some simul for the last 30ft.

P1. We added a more unique pitch to start, El Whampo Direct (10a). Start at the same spot but follow a thin seam straight up, bending right into a layback, through a bush, then at a underclinging overhang make a move left then straight up a slab to the right of the easy crack (two 1/4in bolts). The slab is easy but runout through questionable bolts.

P2. Follow El Whampo right and belay under the roof notch that El Whampo finishes through.

P3 Continue traversing right and upwards ending at a good tree belay.

P4 Short traverse pitch to get to the base of the Elegant Arch.

P5 The Elegant Arch pitch. Cleaner than it looks. I did some tricky liebacking and then switched to low hand jams.

P6 Up a chimney on Sahara Terror then bust right to catch the roof finish of Edgehogs (10c). Aug 15, 2016