Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
Routes in (b) North Face
|Coup de Grace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|East Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|El Dorado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|El Grandote T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|El Monte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|El Whampo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Elegant Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Grace Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Hard Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Northeast Face East T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Northeast Face West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Northeast Farce T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Partners in Crime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Science Friction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Too Biased T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|West Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Type:||Trad, 1600 ft, 11 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Joshua Reinig, Jonathan Reinig , Josh Wieberg. 2010|
|Page Views:||1,153 total, 23/month|
|Shared By:||Joshua Reinig on Sep 10, 2013|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis route follows the large obviouse arching overlaps, that make up the top 3rd of The North Face, ending at Who Dunnit.
Most of the route is 5.8 or easier. Crux pitch 5.10+, is the Distinguishable and Elegant, Giant Arching Right Facing Dihedral. Between upper section of, Lip up Fatty and Sahara Terror.
This Climb was a vision 6 years in the making. Trying to piece together the puzzle and make the pieces flow together, Definitely makes for an Excellent Adventure!!!
LocationStarts just right of Y crack buttress on Broken crack system, 5.7 to first pitch of El Wampo. Follow El Wampo to 5.4 roof. This is when the climbing gets exciting! At 5.4 roof step down and right one body length. Bust right following arching overlaps for 3 pitches, to Crux Pitch.
Arriving at "The Elegant Arch", follow steep 5.10- climbing, in shallow lichen filled right facing corner with a finger crack. Staying more out right on the face for about 25' to a stance/rest.
You are now at part two of this giant arching corner, "The Crux". Perfect sustained hand crack in the middle of corner for 20', with the predominate hard move at the very end pulling the bulge.
The upper and final section. Once at the top third of the Elegant Arch, "Be Mindful" even though the climbing eases up 5.8, A Scary Knife edge, rope chopping Lip looms below. This along with a giant death dagger choked in the middle of this section, make for a great mental challenge!
This Corner/Monster Dihedral brings you right into Sahara Terror, just below the 5.7 Chimney. After crux either finish up Sahara Terror. Or continue out and right, following more exfoliating overlaps to top of Who Dunnit!