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Routes in (b) North Face

Coup de Grace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Dorado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Grandote T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Monte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
El Whampo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elegant Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grace Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face East T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Farce T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Partners in Crime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Science Friction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Biased T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Fred Zeil et al., 1979
Page Views: 119 total · 1/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route has four pitches, all low angle face climbing: 5.10A, 5.9, 5.9, and 5.10B. Pitches 1 through 3 are very runout. Pitch 2 is loose.

Protection

bolts plus some gear

Photos

- No Photos -
Tradiban  
 
I just checked out the topo in the new book, it's spot on. Wish I saw that before I climbed it! Aug 25, 2015
Tradiban  
 
I did this a bit weird. Started right of El Dorado and placed gear as high as possible to the right, then down climbed back left and then straight up to the first bolt. Two stars for P1.

On p2 I traversed right from the anchor to easy ground. I didn't notice the shiny new bolt straight up. Not a good looking pitch either way. There's not bolted anchors at the end of p2.

For p3 I chose the 5.9 option to the right also not noticing the first bolt I traversed straight right from the bolted anchor, then straight up an easy crack. At the end of the crack there's a ledge where you can see a shiny new bolt straight up. I went up a bit, stuffed a few small cams in a left facing flake then ran it out a bit to reach the bolt which seemed to be in an odd place just barely close enough to clip. There's another bolt a few feet higher. From the last bolt the topo looks like you should go up and trend right but that looked totally blank so I traversed straight right to a thin left facing seam.

On the last pitch its all new bolts to a bolted anchor, need a 70 to rap to the p2 anchors. You can. Go left at 10r or right as I did for something that's probably slightly easier. The way I did it I only clipped two bolts on p3. Aug 25, 2015
Climbed only P1. Getting to the first bolt was spicy indeed! I could see how Woody's beta for protection could make this a bot more safe. The climbing above the first bolt was adequately protected. Rap the first pitch (barely!) with a 60m rope. Aug 3, 2009
Woody Hoburg
  5.10b R
Woody Hoburg  
  5.10b R
I found gaining the first bolt on the first pitch confusing. I went up and right, placed gear, then back left into a thin groove (no gear) and up to the bolt. Not too runout the way I did it, but I might not have been on route. Going straight up without the detour right would have been decidedly runout. Jul 27, 2007