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Routes in (b) North Face
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Coup de Grace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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El Dorado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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El Grandote T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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El Monte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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El Whampo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Elegant Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Grace Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hard Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Northeast Face East T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Northeast Face West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Northeast Farce T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Partners in Crime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Science Friction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Too Biased T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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West Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches |
| FA: | Richard Coats, Larry Reynolds, D. McLean, and D. Ross, 1964 |
| Page Views: | 17,165 total · 113/month |
| Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 |
| Admins: | C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Description
This route starts just right of Northeast Farce, by some shallow cracks. Go up these cracks, traverse left, and then over some small overhangs to a belay. Pitch 2 (5.7) traverses right to a crux finger jam move, leading up to a very nice 120 foot long jam crack. Easier climbing above largely follows Northeast Farce up to the shoulder of the rock above.
The best easy hand crack in Idylwild. Jul 18, 2007
Run it out right face climbing to a vertical crack and ascend to under the arch to a comfortable belay, (5.7).
There are several alternative exits from the arch, all about the same difficulty. The highest quality alternative is to continue with an easy long pitch and exit at the overhang that is shared by N.E. Face West and several other routes.
This produces about a six pitch climb and adds a couple of quality ones. Jul 26, 2007
Kernville, CA
Atascadero, CA
the couch
I was pretty sure I was off-route on the slab above the second pitch, since there's really no pro until you get a pin scar near the top of the slab. Pretty good feet for slab...there are a bunch of black inclusions in the rock that seem to give a pretty good purchase, but there's no hands. Run-out is maybe 20-25 feet. Not sure. Merits a PG13 probably?
Get gear under the roof you go over to get onto the slab. What a fun route!
Edit June 2012: This time went up and left toward the dihedral on P3 (instead of straight up). Turning the "roof" (more the remnants of the giant dihedral than a roof) is easy if you find the right way, much easier to protect, and there is much less loose rock than if you go to the right. Once you get over the roof, stay high on the buttress and it's easy going on clean, pretty solid rock to the dead tree where most people (?) unrope. Tom (below) must have found a different seam than the one i followed. I scoured it for placements and found nothing but a lot of dirt and moss in a shallow thin crack.
The crack on the second pitch is spectacular for the grade...in it's way as good as The Grack - Center in the Valley. Jul 26, 2010
Fort Collins, CO
running springs Ca
San Diego, CA
Follow the guidebook topo to finish it up, basically another traverse pitch and pull through a notch for another pitch of 5.easy climbing above. Sep 16, 2012
I'll second Chris D's note, stay high on the buttress after p4. This was a little confusing. Jun 17, 2013
california
First few pitches of this climb are a lot of fun, the 2nd pitch crack is great and deserves the hype it gets. Also, the 3rd pitch runout really isn't that bad, a small nut works perfectly in the thin seam, as tom mentioned earlier. Definitely go for the slab, runout or not, it's not hard. Rest of the climb got weaker and weaker by every pitch, but other than pitch 6, each pitch has something very interesting about it. Highly recommended. Jul 16, 2013
From the top of p2 head up and left for ~30-50' (don't remember exactly) before working your way right under a large dihedral before finally pulling over it to end p3 whenever you want. Great pro the whole way but use runners to manage the rope drag.
From here I worked lightly left again until I reached a great layback crack that headed up and right and eventually ended by pulling over a small dihedral. P5 I stayed away from the gulley to the right to keep climbing in the 5.7 range. About halfway up you it levels off for about 20' and then you have the choice of working right into a gulley or going straight up a 20' face. This face can be protected with a #2 C3 or maybe a .3 C4 about halfway up if you look carefully between the small bushes. After this face head right under a large dihedral and pull over it on good holds when you hit a corner after 10'. Then finish up to the top (dead tree) however you see fit! Aug 25, 2013
Cheshire, UK
Start/Scramble - Start the route by scrambling up a 3rd/4th class gully on your left to a large tree on a ledge.
P1 - Climb straight up until you reach a small tree with slings on it.
P2 - There are two variations to the start of pitch 2. You can traverse down low from the belay station to the crack where you can get one piece in before you reach the crack or you can climb 10 feet up and then make the traverse to the crack (no pro). I climbed 10 feet up and then did the traverse on slab. It's easy climbing but it makes for a more exciting/spicy start since there's no pro and it's all feet until you get to the start of the crack.
P3 I went up and slightly left and built an anchor when I hit the small roof.
P4 I traversed right for about 20 to 30 feet and then went up and over the small roof (maybe one 5.7 move) and continued up for maybe 70 feet on easy ground to a tree.
P5 I continued straight up until reaching some large boulders and built an anchor. From there we unroped and walked to the top. Sep 6, 2016
After reaching the main crack either do not place until well above the traverse piece or down climb and clean so your second isn't facing a bone crushing swing.
The left (straight up) variation of the third pitch now has a relatively new bolt. (really a pitch of El Grandote?) I still am of the opinion that the original traverse to the right is the superior route. It does not follow the undercling in the one referenced topo, but almost immediately after crossing the " crocodile head" above the second belay face climbs right (a bit run) on bumps to a vertical crack. There's an intermediate seam where some strictly psychological pro can be placed.
Sep 6, 2016
Eagan, MN