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Routes in (b) North Face

Coup de Grace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Dorado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Grandote T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Monte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
El Whampo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elegant Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grace Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face East T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Farce T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Partners in Crime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Science Friction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Biased T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Richard Coats, Larry Reynolds, D. McLean, and D. Ross, 1964
Page Views: 16,454 total · 111/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route starts just right of Northeast Farce, by some shallow cracks. Go up these cracks, traverse left, and then over some small overhangs to a belay. Pitch 2 (5.7) traverses right to a crux finger jam move, leading up to a very nice 120 foot long jam crack. Easier climbing above largely follows Northeast Farce up to the shoulder of the rock above.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

PDF
 
PDF  
 
2nd pitch is great. Best crack at the 5.6 grade I have climbed yet. Jun 11, 2006
Graham Roff  
 
After the second pitch it is possible to finish by heading up and slightly to the left over the root of the dihedral (making it a three pitch route instead of five). This avoids the loose uninspired last pitches. From the end of this pitch you can drop straight into the north gully descent.
The best easy hand crack in Idylwild. Jul 18, 2007
A spicier and longer finish is to go up then right over a small overhang.(this is well below the bolt)
Run it out right face climbing to a vertical crack and ascend to under the arch to a comfortable belay, (5.7).

There are several alternative exits from the arch, all about the same difficulty. The highest quality alternative is to continue with an easy long pitch and exit at the overhang that is shared by N.E. Face West and several other routes.

This produces about a six pitch climb and adds a couple of quality ones. Jul 26, 2007
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
 
Bolt? What bolt? The ORIGINAL way it was done was to take the arch exit to where the route joins the NE Butt. exit. Exiting where the NE Farce goes IS NOT El Whampo. Yep, the 2nd pitch was fun for the grade but the third pitch (headin up and right along a thin crack/seam) was fun too (5.7 friction). Sep 25, 2007
Dynomight510
  5.7
Dynomight510  
  5.7
Great crack on P2. I always back off going right on P3. Did not see any pro. Opted for going more right to the arch. very enjoyable. Sep 11, 2009
Jack Ziegler
Golden, CO
Jack Ziegler   Golden, CO
missed the double cracks for p2. I continued up the dihedral (maybe 5.9?) until I reached the end of 70m (starting from the base). There was a long sling for a rap where I stopped, with which with a 70m you can rap to a sturdy bush where I discovered the double cracks. Jun 21, 2010
Chris D
the couch
  5.7
Chris D   the couch
  5.7
Ha! Wish I'd read these posts before I went out on this one today...or perhaps it's best I didn't!

I was pretty sure I was off-route on the slab above the second pitch, since there's really no pro until you get a pin scar near the top of the slab. Pretty good feet for slab...there are a bunch of black inclusions in the rock that seem to give a pretty good purchase, but there's no hands. Run-out is maybe 20-25 feet. Not sure. Merits a PG13 probably?

Get gear under the roof you go over to get onto the slab. What a fun route!

Edit June 2012: This time went up and left toward the dihedral on P3 (instead of straight up). Turning the "roof" (more the remnants of the giant dihedral than a roof) is easy if you find the right way, much easier to protect, and there is much less loose rock than if you go to the right. Once you get over the roof, stay high on the buttress and it's easy going on clean, pretty solid rock to the dead tree where most people (?) unrope. Tom (below) must have found a different seam than the one i followed. I scoured it for placements and found nothing but a lot of dirt and moss in a shallow thin crack.

The crack on the second pitch is spectacular for the grade...in it's way as good as The Grack - Center in the Valley. Jul 26, 2010
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
The thin seam on P3 protects well with small nuts and is another fun pitch. You can barely make out the seam up and slightly right from the belay at the end of P2. There's a great #1 Camalot before you step out onto the slab and the seam is reached about 8 ft later. No runout and very mellow. Jun 24, 2011
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
P2 is sooooo good!! One the best hand cracks I have ever been on. Jul 23, 2012
Chris Norwood
San Diego, CA
 
Chris Norwood   San Diego, CA
 
^ Rob knows :) 4 stars for the second pitch Jul 23, 2012
Tradiban
  5.7
Tradiban  
  5.7
The origional third 5.7 pitch is well worth doing but the crux moves are unprotected, might get a tiny nut in, it gets easier soon with good albiet small pro.

Follow the guidebook topo to finish it up, basically another traverse pitch and pull through a notch for another pitch of 5.easy climbing above. Sep 16, 2012
Will P.  
There is a terrifying amount of loose rock higher up. The climb was great, but climbing under another party wouldn't be wise.
I'll second Chris D's note, stay high on the buttress after p4. This was a little confusing. Jun 17, 2013
Climb To Safety
california
 
Climb To Safety   california
 
What a fun route, climbed 7-16-2013, not a single person on the route, and not a single person on the rock, at least to my knowledge. 2 rangers were waiting at the trailhead for the north face approach of tahquitz, warning people to stay off the mountain, and even claiming that the mountain might be shutdown due to the riverside county fire, the fire made for some cool looking smoke clouds while climbing tahquitz, too bad i didn't bring a camera.

First few pitches of this climb are a lot of fun, the 2nd pitch crack is great and deserves the hype it gets. Also, the 3rd pitch runout really isn't that bad, a small nut works perfectly in the thin seam, as tom mentioned earlier. Definitely go for the slab, runout or not, it's not hard. Rest of the climb got weaker and weaker by every pitch, but other than pitch 6, each pitch has something very interesting about it. Highly recommended. Jul 16, 2013
Jeff Botimer
  5.7
Jeff Botimer  
  5.7
Just did the left variation finish after p2, fantastic climb! I found it every bit as good as Fingertrip.

From the top of p2 head up and left for ~30-50' (don't remember exactly) before working your way right under a large dihedral before finally pulling over it to end p3 whenever you want. Great pro the whole way but use runners to manage the rope drag.

From here I worked lightly left again until I reached a great layback crack that headed up and right and eventually ended by pulling over a small dihedral. P5 I stayed away from the gulley to the right to keep climbing in the 5.7 range. About halfway up you it levels off for about 20' and then you have the choice of working right into a gulley or going straight up a 20' face. This face can be protected with a #2 C3 or maybe a .3 C4 about halfway up if you look carefully between the small bushes. After this face head right under a large dihedral and pull over it on good holds when you hit a corner after 10'. Then finish up to the top (dead tree) however you see fit! Aug 25, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.7
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.7
Some very good pitches, notably the crack on P2 and the long slabby layback on P5. Of the 3 5.7 pitches (trying to follow Bob Gaines's description in "Best Climbs") the middle one (a move round an overlap on P4) seemed the hardest, UK 4c or thereabouts. I'm unclear about the easiest line for the traverse right out to the crack at the start of P2 - if you go low from the belay it's well protected but there is a tricky move to start the cracks (UK 5a?): I think Gaines suggests going right 10' higher along a friction slab (5.4PG). Oct 3, 2014
Camron
  5.7
Camron  
  5.7
Great climb! P2 is really enjoyable.

Start/Scramble - Start the route by scrambling up a 3rd/4th class gully on your left to a large tree on a ledge.
P1 - Climb straight up until you reach a small tree with slings on it.
P2 - There are two variations to the start of pitch 2. You can traverse down low from the belay station to the crack where you can get one piece in before you reach the crack or you can climb 10 feet up and then make the traverse to the crack (no pro). I climbed 10 feet up and then did the traverse on slab. It's easy climbing but it makes for a more exciting/spicy start since there's no pro and it's all feet until you get to the start of the crack.
P3 I went up and slightly left and built an anchor when I hit the small roof.
P4 I traversed right for about 20 to 30 feet and then went up and over the small roof (maybe one 5.7 move) and continued up for maybe 70 feet on easy ground to a tree.
P5 I continued straight up until reaching some large boulders and built an anchor. From there we unroped and walked to the top. Sep 6, 2016
For the second pitch initial traverse you can get reasonable protection for the upper variation by climbing up about 15 ft and placing gear under the flake as far right as you can get a good piece. Then down climb to the white streak and traverse.

After reaching the main crack either do not place until well above the traverse piece or down climb and clean so your second isn't facing a bone crushing swing.

The left (straight up) variation of the third pitch now has a relatively new bolt. (really a pitch of El Grandote?) I still am of the opinion that the original traverse to the right is the superior route. It does not follow the undercling in the one referenced topo, but almost immediately after crossing the " crocodile head" above the second belay face climbs right (a bit run) on bumps to a vertical crack. There's an intermediate seam where some strictly psychological pro can be placed.

Sep 6, 2016
Lou Hibbard
Eagan, MN
Lou Hibbard   Eagan, MN
I agree with Tom and thought the standard seam way on the third pitch was fun and well protected. You just had to work for the gear and it felt spicy. Small nuts and one very small cam worked well for the seam. Climbing was easy for the Taquitz grade with good feet. Aug 22, 2017

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