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Routes in (b) North Face

Coup de Grace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Dorado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Grandote T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Monte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
El Whampo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elegant Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grace Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face East T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Farce T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Partners in Crime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Science Friction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Biased T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Don Wilson and Royal Robbins, September 1954
Page Views: 1,421 total, 33/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Jun 19, 2014 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

There are no bolts on this 1954 Royal Robbins route.

P1: Climb flakes left of a right-facing dihedral until you're in a left-facing dihedral.

P2: climb up into a right-facing dihedral with a wide crack (a #4 is helpful). Belay at a ledge with a small tree.

P3: leave the ledge and follow a thin crack in a very nice right facing dihedral past two fixed pitons. When under a small roof, make an exciting traverse straight right 15' (5.6) to gain a crack system and then up to a belay spot.

P4: climb up into a right-facing dihedral.(There is a fixed pin ~3' left of the line, just before a smooth crux.) Continue up over a couple of bushes. Belay at a fixed pin in the corner.

P5: continue up steep chunky blocks and trend rightward as desired to gain a rock-filled chute with a tree at its base.

P6: follow the 4th class chute to the topp.

Location

Next crack system right of the large roof, right of El Grandote.

Protection

Pro to 3", #4 C4 helpful.
Ben Crowell
  5.6
Ben Crowell  
  5.6
I've posted a topo. Please let me know if you see anything that looks inaccurate. Vogel shows a right-hand variation of P5, detouring around the overhangs, which I haven't tried, but I've heard it's harder. For pitch 6 there is a 5.3 variation leading up and to the left, which gets you into the north gully a little more directly than the 4th class line to the right. A fun route in a less popular area where you don't have to climb in a conga line on a Saturday. A possible negative is that there's a certain sameness to a lot of the climbing on pitches 2, 3, and 4. Jul 4, 2017
Jo Nathan
San Diego, CA
  5.8-
Jo Nathan   San Diego, CA
  5.8-
Challenging route-finding here, especially in the dark. A few notes: P2 climbs a wide crack as listed, not a broken up flakey crack thing - a wide one. Don't go left to a R-facing dihedral. P2 ends on a no-shit, car-size ledge with a small 4in diameter tree AND a two bolt anchor. P1/2 cannot be linked together with a 70m. Should you desire to link P3/4, one MUST extend/direct one's traverse gear away from a couple perfectly rope-width-sized flake that will grab your rope and never let go. Head these lessons and you won't return to your car at 1:29am. Aug 8, 2016
Countzen Shin
Santa Monica, CA
Countzen Shin   Santa Monica, CA
There are some orphan pitons on p3 or p4. Just use your best judgement and don't follow the pitons to a blind corner thinking it's the route.

You will end up on a 40ft runout on slab, definitely above 5.7 grade.

I think I pooped my pants. Jul 30, 2015
Donno
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
I climbed this two days ago and found P3 to be stellar. Try to ignore the "Partners in Crime" bolts placed too close to this line and imagine how it was for Robbins in '54, first time up.
I was able to follow the topo from Vogel's '85 guide :-).
See route description under "updates". Jul 6, 2015
hjaved
 
hjaved  
 
Did the route in May 2014. Sustained route. 5.6-5.7. The guidebook wasn't helpful so we went off track. Fun route! Jul 17, 2014