Northeast Face East
Avg: 2.4 from 13 votes
Routes in (b) North Face
|Coup de Grace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|East Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|El Dorado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|El Grandote T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|El Monte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|El Whampo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Elegant Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Grace Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Hard Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Northeast Face East T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Northeast Face West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Northeast Farce T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Partners in Crime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Science Friction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Too Biased T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|West Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Type:||Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Don Wilson and Royal Robbins, September 1954|
|Page Views:||1,421 total, 33/month|
|Shared By:||Tradiban on Jun 19, 2014|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThere are no bolts on this 1954 Royal Robbins route.
P1: Climb flakes left of a right-facing dihedral until you're in a left-facing dihedral.
P2: climb up into a right-facing dihedral with a wide crack (a #4 is helpful). Belay at a ledge with a small tree.
P3: leave the ledge and follow a thin crack in a very nice right facing dihedral past two fixed pitons. When under a small roof, make an exciting traverse straight right 15' (5.6) to gain a crack system and then up to a belay spot.
P4: climb up into a right-facing dihedral.(There is a fixed pin ~3' left of the line, just before a smooth crux.) Continue up over a couple of bushes. Belay at a fixed pin in the corner.
P5: continue up steep chunky blocks and trend rightward as desired to gain a rock-filled chute with a tree at its base.
P6: follow the 4th class chute to the topp.