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Routes in (b) North Face

Coup de Grace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Dorado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Grandote T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Monte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
El Whampo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elegant Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grace Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face East T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Farce T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Partners in Crime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Science Friction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Biased T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Yvon Chouinard and Harry Daley, 1961
Page Views: 1,059 total, 25/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Jun 19, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A varied excursion up an obvious line.

P1 starts in an obvious right facing dihedral under a large roof. Exit the dihedral left before reaching the roof then move back right in to crack. Finish on a nice belay ledge to the left with a small tree.

P2 From the small tree move down the ledge a bit and then up a right to nice right facing flake. Or head up the short right facing corner above the tree with a stuck hex and piton in it and make some dicey slab moves over to the flake on the right. Trend right until right below a notch in the roof. I set up a awkward belay literally sitting on a bush.

P3 Head up through the notch and continue on easy ground (intersecting El Whampo) to another belay below a roof.

P4 Exit left through the roof or right up a short slab.

P5 Easy climbing to the shoulder. Climb up a bit on the shoulder to gain an exit into the decent gully.

Location

Obvious right facing corner into large roof directly left of El Whampo.

Protection

Pro to 3".
Oz Despacio Munoz  
  5.9
1st pitch is fantastic adrenaline stuff and 2nd starts off a touch left of belay with a couple commiting moves to get started in the thin dihedral cracks..Warning : Loose lichen /choss on the section under the roofs ... Aug 6, 2016
Nick Thurston
  5.9 PG13
Nick Thurston  
  5.9 PG13
Climbed this today. I agree with Ryan that it is pretty full value. Second pitch especially seems to see a lot of people getting off route, although I'd wonder if this route has a truly defined line to get off route on. The second pitch has a few pretty heads up moments, demanding confident movement pretty high above the gear. You'll definitely want to bring lots of slings for this route. I used them all on almost every pitch (I had six or seven, I believe). Wouldn't call this a classic, but worth getting on none the less. Jun 13, 2016
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
  5.9 PG13
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
  5.9 PG13
I thought this was a full-value 5.9 for Idyllwild. Route-finding was a challenge on every pitch. Every pitch until you get over the roof a few hundred feet up was challenging and probably 5.9. There were frequent "better not fall" areas on every pitch, but nothing too crazy. Overall, I enjoyed the route and would recommend it. Make sure you're solid on 5.9 and be prepared to take your time finding the best route up, because there are often many good looking options that may or may not work out well, depending on your ability. I carried doubles from BD .5-3, some thin cams, nuts, lots of long runners, and it felt appropriate. I'm not aching to get on this one again, but it deserves more traffic than it appears to get. Definitely a high quality route with an alpine feel. Oct 10, 2015
Tradiban  
 
How can you comment on quality if you only climbed the first pitch? Oct 8, 2015
Stormeh
  5.9
Stormeh  
  5.9
Did the first pitch of this before bailing to El Whampo due to being stuck behind a slow party. I thought the rock quality was quite poor for the stars this route had received, although the moves were ok I guess. Sep 29, 2015