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Routes in (b) North Face

Coup de Grace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Dorado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Grandote T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Monte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
El Whampo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elegant Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grace Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face East T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Farce T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Partners in Crime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Science Friction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Biased T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bill Cramer And Mark Uphus, Aug. 2004
Page Views: 1,434 total, 11/month
Shared By: BCramer on Nov 30, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protection

Nuts, small to medium cams, draws.

Description

Route begins down and right of the start of Grace Slick. Climb a crack that starts at the base of the slab/pillar, at it's end step left up to a bolt, two more bolts (crux) lead to a belay at the top of the slab/pillar. (Note: You can bypass the first crux pitch by climbing the easy 4/5th class left end of the "pillar", makes the route 5.9). Second pitch climbs straight over small roof then move up and left (bolts) to a right facing dihedral formed by the Grace Slick slab. Climb up to then out over the dihedral at a roof onto the Grace Slick slab following cracks and other features (gear) to a two bolt belay. Climb straight up the right margin of the slab (bolts) to a belay in a corner at a small pine. Step left up onto the slab above following four more bolts sraight up to a final two bolt belay. Rap the route (60M single or two ropes). Lot of fun! (It might even be a 3 star route).

Photos

Chris Diercks
San Diego, CA
 
Chris Diercks   San Diego, CA
 
This is another fun Uphus and Cramer route. I got shut down on the first pitch; crux is definitely between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. That would have been my first legit 10b. So instead we scrambled up and Tr'd it then led the rest. Some sketchy rock but absolutely worth getting on again for us. Probably should have given it 3 stars as all pitches are worth getting on I think. I felt like the 3rd and 4th pitches combined was the money pitch. Everything but the last 12 feet or so was good quality rock. Got gritty right before the final anchors, but you can get in a cam off to the right before heading on up.

One thing about combining pitches 3 and 4. The rope starts to get a wee heavy at the top of the route. Just something to consider. Aug 1, 2016
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
 
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
 
Did this route by mistake, but it was a great experience. We didn't do the 10b pitch because we intended to climb Grace Slick but didn't really study the topo for it so we started this climb on Pitch 2, thinking it was Grace Slick.

Pitch 2 is good, but there wasn't much pro once you pull the roof, so don't blow it. Pitches 3 and 4 were fun, well protected slab climbing. The top of Pitch 4 was great because you move right onto the edge of the arete for the last few moves. Both are typical Idyllwild 5.9 slab/face.

We rapped and downclimbed after P4 with a 60m rope. A 70m rope would eliminate some downclimbing, but not all. 2 ropes would probably get you to the ground. Sep 16, 2013
Eric Foltz
California
  5.10b
Eric Foltz   California
  5.10b
This route will clean up nicely once it gets a little traffic. It will probably end up getting a little easier (10a) once the loose grain and lichen get worn off the first pitch.

Route can be done as two pitches with a 60m rope.

It is also much easier to rap using two ropes. Two ropes will allow you to rap from bolted rap stations without having to use the tied off bushes. Jun 7, 2010