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Routes in Upper Broadloaves - North

Interceptor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 66 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Savage Attack! T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stolen Thunder T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Tide Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Earl Mcalister
Page Views: 95 total, 2/month
Shared By: bheller on Jun 30, 2014
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

The crux is bolt protected and found right off the ledge where the route departs the Lost Pioneers (10a) corner at 3/4's height. This route is worth doing on a hot day, but the grainy lichen covered rock lowers its quality rating.

Location

This route is the jagged finger crack that leaves the corner and diagonals out left on the steep face from Lost Pioneers (10a). Climb Lost Pioneers (10a) about 3/4's of its length and mantle onto the small ledge beneath the patch of large feldspar crystal. Easiest to rap with a 70, but a 60 could work with some downclimbing.

Protection

Standard trad rack. 2 bolts protect the steep moves through the large feldspar crystals off the ledge where the route departs Lost Pioneers (10a). Small nuts are helpful for protecting the jagged finger crack on the face. Bolt anchor on the far left side of the flat "block" ledge it finishes on.

Photos

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I backed off this cool little crack back in the diem (when we were still speaking Latin). Good job pushing thru lads! Yes to a finish up the head-wall! Jan 20, 2015
JF1
Las Vegas
JF1   Las Vegas
FA Earl Mcalister Jul 14, 2014
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
I spied this line from the road and because it wasn't in the guidebook or posted, my friend and I thought were were in for a ground up traditional F.A. We even scoped the route with binoculars and somehow missed the two bolts and upper anchor! Nice work camouflaging those with paint! It would have went without the bolts, but it would have been a R rating. Perhaps this is a Shilling route... who knows? We just added our own name (Savage Attack!), but I'll gladly correct to credit the F.A. A few more bolts up the steep hueco'd north face would make a most excellent 2nd summit pitch and greatly add to the routes appeal- especially on those hot summer days! Jun 30, 2014