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Routes in Private Idaho

900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Battered Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beckey-Stanley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All (2) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brave the suppressed laughter of the tweeny maid T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Curious Poses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eraserhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Can See Your House From Here S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
I am in top a shader T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Imagine Your Best Student Here T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Istanbul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Fern T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
S & S T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Citizens in Space T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spineless S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tea Bag S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Three trucks stacked on top of each other S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wet Dream T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Turkey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
prairie fire that wanders, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
unnamed 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Cal Folsom, Dave Anderson, Don Brooks, 1984
Page Views: 687 total · 14/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Mar 28, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2018 Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper pitches of the Diamond Details

Description [Edit]

This is already described as a variation of Magic Fern, but it seems to me worthy of it's own designation as a route. And there is confusion about which goes where. Jon's overview map found on this area heading is helpful here. The Clint Cummins book gives it a 11a, SVR gives it the 10d. The start was 5.8 in both books, which seems right once you make it to the first finger lock. The left side crack on the fin above is the thin tips crux. It is short and protects with small nuts and cams. The 2nd pitch is the chimney on the right above the big ledge to flaring hands ( originally considered 5.9) which I would agree with others posting on Magic Fern, that it is 10a.

Location [Edit]

right of Wet Dream.

Protection [Edit]

standard rack. If doing as one long pitch you may want doubles. offset brass nuts and tiny cams for crux.
SS rap ring anchor.

Photos

Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
The hardest move may be the very first move off the ground. Also, above the tips crack section, you can go up the left side or the right side of the next big fin-chockstone. The left side is more natural, and less of a grunt then the right side. Sep 14, 2014
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
the right hand exit (chimney sort of thing) wasn't bad, probably easy 9'ish if you are used to that sort of thing, but there are several not so great blocks above it, followed by ugly muddy bushwhacking or R/X rated face/arete climbing. this climbing is terrific, but harder than any of the other parts of the route.

overall, this route is infinitely easier than spineless, not too far to the right. Jun 29, 2016

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