Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Cal Folsom, Dave Anderson, Don Brooks, 1984
Page Views: 878 total · 14/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Mar 28, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This is already described as a variation of Magic Fern, but it seems to me worthy of it's own designation as a route. And there is confusion about which goes where. Jon's overview map found on this area heading is helpful here. The Clint Cummins book gives it a 11a, SVR gives it the 10d. The start was 5.8 in both books, which seems right once you make it to the first finger lock. The left side crack on the fin above is the thin tips crux. It is short and protects with small nuts and cams. The 2nd pitch is the chimney on the right above the big ledge to flaring hands ( originally considered 5.9) which I would agree with others posting on Magic Fern, that it is 10a.

Location

right of Wet Dream.

Protection

standard rack. If doing as one long pitch you may want doubles. offset brass nuts and tiny cams for crux.
SS rap ring anchor.

Photos

Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
 
The hardest move may be the very first move off the ground. Also, above the tips crack section, you can go up the left side or the right side of the next big fin-chockstone. The left side is more natural, and less of a grunt then the right side. Sep 14, 2014
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
the right hand exit (chimney sort of thing) wasn't bad, probably easy 9'ish if you are used to that sort of thing, but there are several not so great blocks above it, followed by ugly muddy bushwhacking or R/X rated face/arete climbing. this climbing is terrific, but harder than any of the other parts of the route.

overall, this route is infinitely easier than spineless, not too far to the right. Jun 29, 2016
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
5.10c/d
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
5.10c/d
The right side climbs well Slim!? I think that's a height/reach/hand size dependent thing. Granted I've only been sport climbing lately, but that transition out of the alcove kicked my ass. I've got a pretty solid Trex index going and couldn't quite reach up to good jams from incuts and couldn't establish stemming well from the holds within the alcove to get out. If you have a longer reach and/or tight #1 is your jam it's probably relatively tame for the grade, but for me it's a Vawkward.

Corner seam climbs easier than it looks at first. I cut right of the tree at the top to avoid the runout arete, it was an easy walk up and not muddy.

Agree that spineless is still harder. Jun 26, 2018