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Routes in Private Idaho

900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Battered Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beckey-Stanley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All (2) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brave the suppressed laughter of the tweeny maid T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Curious Poses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eraserhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Can See Your House From Here S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
I am in top a shader T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Imagine Your Best Student Here T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Istanbul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Fern T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
S & S T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Citizens in Space T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spineless S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tea Bag S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Three trucks stacked on top of each other S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wet Dream T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Turkey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
prairie fire that wanders, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
unnamed 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Greg Collum & Greg Olsen, 1989
Page Views: 1,598 total, 21/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Sep 28, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Layback up the arete just right of Senior Citizens. The crux for many is just below a small overlap. Even though the bolts are all on the right side of the arete on the bottom 2/3 of the route, one may find it easier to sometimes climb on the left side.

Even when many other routes are wet, this one may be dry.

Location

Start just right of Senior Citizens in Space.

Protection

All bolts.

Photos

Zacks  
I really enjoyed this route once i worked out all the beta, the first time up was quite hard. I think i find a new "hold" every time lol. Jun 19, 2016
JRD
JRD  
If you're worried about falling off before the first bolt there's a 0.5 (BD) placement that will protect you nicely to the first bolt. Jul 20, 2015
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
Climbing to the left as you approach the overlap works but be aware that falling before you make that clip will send you hurtling into the wall of the dihedral behind you. At 5'1", I found this to be a difficult clip to reach. For those wanting to mitigate this risk, climbing Senior Citizens first and pre-hanging an extended draw at that spot allows you to make the clip from a safer position. I am by no means solid at the grade so your mileage may vary.

I thought this climb was excellent and interesting throughout. Sep 2, 2013