Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Fisk and Tish Nakia
Page Views: 2,766 total · 41/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Jun 4, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


56 Opinions

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Description

A long, left-leaning, left-facing corner.

Looking from below, you might think the climbing was fairly monotonous. But actually, you can use all sorts of methods to get up it, and there are quite a few face holds on the left wall to get rests, particularly near the bottom.

The crux is probably near the top, just above where the horizontal crack cuts right.

The top has a two-bolt chained anchor.

Location

Look for the obvious, long left-facing corner just right of Eraserhead (the bolted face right off the ground).

Protection

Gear to 4". A few finger-sized stoppers, and lots of cams.

Photos

First Ascent: John Fisk and Tish Nakia Jul 13, 2013
Jessica T
seattle, wa
 
Jessica T   seattle, wa
 
Also fun to traverse into the top pitch of magic fern at the horizontal right below the chimney. Aug 11, 2013
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
  5.9+
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
  5.9+
I think this might just be the funnest, most classic one-pitch 5.9 at Index. The pitch has lots of little rests, and it helps to use a variety of methods. Aug 12, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
I did some cleaning of this route a couple of years ago, ferns, moss, lots of dirt and loose rocks in the crack, and it still sheds dirt out of the crack which is a giant shield that goes through to Magic Fern. I would like to clear out the top out as well, so many projects.
I agree with Jon, this is a great 5.9, also Battered Sandwich too.
I seem to remember going up to the Magic fern anchor a few years back, now there is a SS anchor. Dec 15, 2013
JRD
JRD  
Nice to have double 3's if you've got 'em. Jul 20, 2015
Benjamin Pontecorvo
Seattle, WA
Benjamin Pontecorvo   Seattle, WA
This route is pretty fun- agree with the two 3s suggestion. I struggled at the beginning of the chimney flare, jamming the crack with right shoulder in- I switched to left hand in crack and back on wall and it was so much better. Bottom was wet but doable. Jul 6, 2018