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Spineless

5.11a, Sport, TR, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3 from 129 votes
FA: Greg Collum & Greg Olsen, 1989
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho

Description

Layback up the arete just right of Senior Citizens. For arete climbing, this is a step up in difficulty from Sisara on LO Point immediately above. 

The crux for many is just below a small overlap. Even though the bolts are all on the right side of the arete on the bottom 2/3 of the route, one may find it easier to sometimes climb on the left side.

Even when many crack routes nearby are wet, this one may be dry (as will other arete routes). If, having done this, you seek greater arete challenges, try Noodle just to the right or a half-dozen other aretes in the vicinity. 

Location

Start just right of Senior Citizens in Space.

Protection

All bolts. Two bolt anchor with mussy hooks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Private Idaho (Istanbul to Spineless, also Noodle)
[Hide Photo] Private Idaho (Istanbul to Spineless, also Noodle)
the hardest part
[Hide Photo] the hardest part
do not jump
[Hide Photo] do not jump
Hank nearing the last draw in spineless . View of the whole "spine"
[Hide Photo] Hank nearing the last draw in spineless . View of the whole "spine"
Groping around on Spineless
[Hide Photo] Groping around on Spineless
barefoot attempt
[Hide Photo] barefoot attempt
Hank nearing the last draw on spineless
[Hide Photo] Hank nearing the last draw on spineless
Very cool climb
[Hide Photo] Very cool climb

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Climbing to the left as you approach the overlap works but be aware that falling before you make that clip will send you hurtling into the wall of the dihedral behind you. At 5'1", I found this to be a difficult clip to reach. For those wanting to mitigate this risk, climbing Senior Citizens first and pre-hanging an extended draw at that spot allows you to make the clip from a safer position. I am by no means solid at the grade so your mileage may vary.

I thought this climb was excellent and interesting throughout. Sep 2, 2013
JRD
[Hide Comment] If you're worried about falling off before the first bolt there's a 0.5 (BD) placement that will protect you nicely to the first bolt. Jul 20, 2015
Zacks
 
[Hide Comment] I really enjoyed this route once i worked out all the beta, the first time up was quite hard. I think i find a new "hold" every time lol. Jun 19, 2016
Nick Drake
Kent, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Soft slippers help. It was infinitely easier in a pair of dragos than well worn katana laces. Jun 26, 2018
Hangdog Hank
Leavenworth, WA
 
[Hide Comment] An extended draw for the bolt located directly next to the overlap is nice. It allows you to clip high before committing to the switch back to the right side of the arete. Clipping this bolt before that sequence also prevents your foot from getting awkwardly mixed up with the rope as you turn the arete. The jug at the first bolt is also beginning to flex pretty badly, not sure how much longer it's going to be around, when this jug goes it will probably add a new harder crux at the first bolt. Jul 19, 2021