Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Darryl Cramer, Jon Nelson
Page Views: 1,957 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Sep 23, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

A bouldery face move off the ground leads to a bolt. Traverse left on a large edge and go up to a mantle with a bolt (can be done by stepping in from the left). The face crux involves climbing from the ledge to the start of the crack.

The crack crux is at the bottom. Soon thereafter, a sequence of two hand pods is reached, providing some rest. But the crack remains interesting and pumpy to the top.

Location

This is the first route to the left of "900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores". It ascends the obvious thin crack on the headwall.

It is very easy to set up a top-rope on this route. You can walk onto the top belay ledge from the trail above the cliff. Look for the hand-rail chain - it is in the area below "Peanuts to serve you" at Lookout Point.

Protection

Four bolts and a fixed pin where the route joins "Beckey-Stanley" near the top. The crack takes small nuts and cams.

Photos

Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
This is a great climb. If you're short, the rating might provoke some shame, however. The slabby face crux is 100% granite: weird and hard. I'm not sure if it's still there, but a knifeblade piton at the crux seemed somewhat of an obstacle/curiosity and didn't seem to add much to the protection. The crack is excellent and makes this climb a real joy after the thrutchy slab crux. Jan 13, 2012
Chris Mutzel
Seattle, Washington
Chris Mutzel   Seattle, Washington
This route has everything. Some technical face moves to start, an 'indexy', balancy mantel and slabby section, a powerful, pockety crux, then fun finger locks for 30ft. Do it! You can pull on the bolts through the slabby section if needed. Everything is well protected. Mar 5, 2015
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
A bit height dependent, or at least favoring those with positive ape indexes.

Chris is right, you can pull on draws through slab moves, I did ;)

Great route. Sep 12, 2016
Zacks
 
Zacks  
 
Love this climb, it's so fun and really tricky. Really had to work out hyper specific beta.

We gave this a pretty good scrubbing in early September '18 hopefully stays clean for a bit Sep 30, 2018