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Routes in Private Idaho

900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Battered Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beckey-Stanley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All (2) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brave the suppressed laughter of the tweeny maid T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Curious Poses T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Eraserhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Can See Your House From Here S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
I am in top a shader T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Imagine Your Best Student Here T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Istanbul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Fern T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
S & S T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Citizens in Space T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spineless S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tea Bag S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Three trucks stacked on top of each other S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wet Dream T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Turkey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
prairie fire that wanders, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
unnamed 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Cal Folsom, Don Brooks
Page Views: 3,383 total · 27/month
Shared By: sqwirll on Apr 15, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A bouldery start leads to a right-traversing finger crack with good knobs for the feet. Continue up the wide left leaning pillar. From the top of the pillar, continue straight up (5.10) or out left (5.9).

Location

Approximatley 50' left of Battered Sandwich.

Protection

Gear to 3" with an optional 4" piece. Slung block at the top of the pillar with rap rings for anchor or continue to the top and rap off a a bolted anchor.

Photos

sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
We excavated this route on 3/22/08. We climbed it on 4/11 and there is now a lot of loose dirt that needs to wash out of the cracks or it may need additional cleaning. Apr 15, 2008
Eric8
Maynard, MA
  5.10-
Eric8   Maynard, MA
  5.10-
The route actually continues to the top of the cliff. Although benign looking SVR lists this section as 5.9. I found it to be harder than any of the 10a's on the ltw. The crux was moving out of a short chimney into a tight hand crack with bad feet.

Its still possible to rappel with a 60m rope from the top of Istanbul. This is a bolt and sling anchor that did not have rap rings on the slings. Apr 19, 2009
NateF
Bend, OR
NateF   Bend, OR
From the alcove with the sling rap station you can continue straight up (as described above), or move left then up. I found both options challenging for the grade. Going left is similar to Battered Sandwich, only more difficult. Going straight up is as difficult as it looks. Both options protect very well, and can be climbed from the ground to the top in a single pitch. Grades vary in the guides, but I'd say straight up is 5.10, to the left .9+
This topo (rcnw.net/forums/index.php?s…) calls the straight up option part of Curious Poses, 5.10.

Either way, very nice route & you'll reach a bolted anchor at the top with steel rap rings. A 60m gets you to the ground in one rap. Oct 18, 2010
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
First ascent: Cal Folsom, Dan Brooks, 1984

Originally approached via the "3rd class" ramp on the right (now overgrown) the Curious Poses start is now used, the bouldery face/thin fingers on the left is described as 5.8 in both books.
Magic Fern then goes up the right side of above fin using hand jambs.
2nd pitch was the left side crack( like said above, both pitches can be done as one)

There is a SS rap station at top of 2nd pitch, 1) 60m rope works. . Mar 28, 2014
Matthew Tangeman
Bellingham, WA
Matthew Tangeman   Bellingham, WA
No midway anchor anymore as of July 2017.

Such a great little pitch! One of my favorite Index moderates. Aug 4, 2017

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