Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Greg Olsen & Jon Nelson, 1989
Page Views: 1,976 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Sep 23, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Steep face climbing, sort of like an easier version of Model Worker.

Start to the left of "The prairie fire that wanders" and "Eraserhead", at a slightly elevated region behind an old stump. A few moves on a flake take you to a steep, sustained headwall with bolts. The crux is not a single move, but rather the pumpy sequence to the third bolt. Being flexible can help here. Though originally rated 10c, the route has been known to stop solid 5.11 climbers.

A chained anchor lies at the top. One can rap with a single 60-m rope.

From the anchor, one can do a short bit of easy climbing to reach the anchor on "Prairie fire" to top-rope the latter. Conversely, one can top-rope "900" from the anchors on "Prairie fire".

Protection

Five bolts. Helpful to bring a hand-to-wide-hands camming unit for the flake above the 4th bolt. Small nuts may be helpful before and after the 5th bolt.

History

On the FA, we started further left, doing some even harder face moves. I am not sure if we used the first bolt either. (Now I cannot climb it this way, even on TR.) The very last bolt is also a recent addition. Seems rather crazy now that we rated it 10c.

The name comes from a headline in the Seattle Times around the time of the FA.

Photos

kerwinl
  5.11a
kerwinl  
  5.11a
I cleaned a ton of mud, grass, pine needles and moss off of this line on 3/1/2015, although not squeaky clean, it is very climbable now. Mar 2, 2015
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
  5.11a
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
  5.11a
Thanks Kerwin.

When clean, it is a fantastic route. Mar 3, 2015
Scott Goodwin
Seattle, WA
 
Scott Goodwin   Seattle, WA
 
Wow, the bottom half of this climb is truly fantastic! That crux move is awesome. Jun 1, 2015