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Routes in Private Idaho

900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Battered Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beckey-Stanley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All (2) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brave the suppressed laughter of the tweeny maid T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Curious Poses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eraserhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Can See Your House From Here S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
I am in top a shader T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Imagine Your Best Student Here T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Istanbul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Fern T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
S & S T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Citizens in Space T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spineless S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tea Bag S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Three trucks stacked on top of each other S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wet Dream T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Turkey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
prairie fire that wanders, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
unnamed 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Greg Olsen & Jon Nelson, 1989
Page Views: 1,709 total, 23/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Sep 23, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Starts to the left of "The prairie fire that wanders" and "Eraserhead", at a slightly elevated region behind an old stump. A few moves on a flake lead to a steep, sustained headwall with bolts. The crux is not a single move, but rather the pumpy sequence to the third bolt. Being flexible can help here. Though originally rated 10c, the route has been known to stop solid 5.11 climbers.

A chained anchor lies at the top. One can rap with a single 60-m rope.

From the anchor, one can do a short bit of easy climbing to reach the anchor on "Prairie fire" to top-rope the latter. Conversely, one can top-rope "900" from the anchors on "Prairie fire".

Protection

Five bolts. Helpful to bring a hand-to-wide-hands camming unit for the flake above the 4th bolt. Small nuts may be helpful before and after the 5th bolt.

History

On the FA, we started further left, doing some even harder face moves. I am not sure if we used the first bolt either. (Now I cannot climb it this way, even on TR.) The very last bolt is also a recent addition. Seems rather crazy now that we rated it 10c.

The name comes from a headline in the Seattle Times around the time of the FA.

Photos

Scott Goodwin
Seattle, WA
 
Scott Goodwin   Seattle, WA
 
Wow, the bottom half of this climb is truly fantastic! That crux move is awesome. Jun 1, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Thanks Kerwin.

When clean, it is a fantastic route. Mar 3, 2015
kerwinl
  5.11a
kerwinl  
  5.11a
I cleaned a ton of mud, grass, pine needles and moss off of this line on 3/1/2015, although not squeaky clean, it is very climbable now. Mar 2, 2015