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Routes in (3) Long Lane

A Dream of White Dragons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dragonslayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Family S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fear Only Fear Itself S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fireman's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Gate Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Golden Gate Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guava Banana T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heping S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inconceivable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lane Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long Lane Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plausible S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocket Overhang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated G S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Reach for the Sky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Renai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhino Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Ladder S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sky Ladder Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyhook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upon A Painted Ocean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virtues On A Street Sign S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Xinyi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zhongxiao S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: Ren-Shiang Chen
Page Views: 171 total · 3/month
Shared By: Danger on Mar 25, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

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Description

Fun 5.10 climbing to the overhang. From here a finger rail sets you up for powerful moves to gain the roof. Fight to the anchors on thankfully sharp rock.

Location

Shares the start for Rated R and PG but diverges right.

Protection

316 steel (2005)

Two bolts added on the slab (2014)

Photos

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Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11+
I found the bottom half to be super-simple low 5th-class climbing in a sea of bolted cracks.

Get into the dark, slimy finger slot below the roof. Do not go left, but instead straight up. Just at the turn of the overhang, there is a protruding pinch that makes for a wild long move, or some seriously heinous crimping. Once into the sharp rock above, the difficulty lets up only slightly as you gain the face.

Extremely short, technical 5.11 (more like LD 5.12+). Sep 10, 2014
Danger
Taipei City
  5.11c
Danger   Taipei City
  5.11c
this is indeed probably undergraded, particularly so when you consider that anything less than perfect beta will have you pulling soooolid 5.12 moves. Jan 8, 2017
Thefryman Fryland
Chicago, IL
 
Thefryman Fryland   Chicago, IL
 
The bolt protecting the crux move is starting to look a bit sketchy. There is a lot of space around it (glue-in). I took several huge whips on it and it held, but maybe that wasn't the greatest idea.. I would caution others to be careful on this route until it is rebolted. Aug 27, 2018 · Temporary Report

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