Type: Sport
FA: Ren-Shiang Chen
Page Views: 178 total · 3/month
Shared By: Danger on Mar 25, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Fun 5.10 climbing to the overhang. From here a finger rail sets you up for powerful moves to gain the roof. Fight to the anchors on thankfully sharp rock.

Location

Shares the start for Rated R and PG but diverges right.

Protection

316 steel (2005)

Two bolts added on the slab (2014)

Photos

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Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11+
I found the bottom half to be super-simple low 5th-class climbing in a sea of bolted cracks.

Get into the dark, slimy finger slot below the roof. Do not go left, but instead straight up. Just at the turn of the overhang, there is a protruding pinch that makes for a wild long move, or some seriously heinous crimping. Once into the sharp rock above, the difficulty lets up only slightly as you gain the face.

Extremely short, technical 5.11 (more like LD 5.12+). Sep 10, 2014
Danger
Taipei City
  5.11c
Danger   Taipei City
  5.11c
this is indeed probably undergraded, particularly so when you consider that anything less than perfect beta will have you pulling soooolid 5.12 moves. Jan 8, 2017