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Long Lane Rock Climbing
Routes in (3) Long Lane
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A Dream of White Dragons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dragonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dragonslayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Family S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fear Only Fear Itself S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fireman's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Golden Gate Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Golden Gate Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guava Banana S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Heping S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inconceivable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Long Lane Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Long Lane Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Plausible S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pocket Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pocket Overhang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rated G S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Reach for the Sky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Renai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rhino Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sky Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sky Ladder Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skyhook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Upon A Painted Ocean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Virtues On A Street Sign S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Xinyi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Zhongxiao S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Elevation: | 38 ft | 12 m |
| GPS: |
25.1108, 121.9228 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 18,711 total · 112/month | |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Mar 20, 2011 | |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
Description
This section contains routes beginning just after The Traverse and continuing to the Bulletin Board. After crossing The Traverse and stepping up onto the large and slightly tilted platform, Long's Arete rises directly overhead. Passing beneath this and over the "monobridge," Long Lane proper cuts up into the shady, dank cavernous area. Directly in front of you is the Bulletin Board - a mix of 5.8-5.12 sport climbs of varying lengths. Once you drop down towards the bouldery gully below the Whale's Head, you are in Music Hall.
This area, especially the interior of the lane itself, gets the most shade of any area at LD. Combined with the concentration of accessible sport routes, this area is often crowded and noisy. If you get lucky and/or come out on a sunny week day, this can be a great place to get on a bunch of quality bolted lines. Otherwise, it can be like a vacation gym.
Some of the most classic routes here are Dragonslayer, 5.9 trad, just above the monobridge; Family, 11c sport, right side of the lane; Reach For The Sky, 11b sport, back of the lane; Heping, 10c sport, left side of the lane; Golden Gate, 5.8 sport, right side of Bulletin Board; Sky Ladder, 10b sport, left side of Bulletin Board. Most of these sport routes can also be climbed at least partially on trad gear.
Beware of the bolts you are clipping here, as this area contains the oldest stainless steel bolts and one of the most corrosive micro-environments at Long Dong.
This area, especially the interior of the lane itself, gets the most shade of any area at LD. Combined with the concentration of accessible sport routes, this area is often crowded and noisy. If you get lucky and/or come out on a sunny week day, this can be a great place to get on a bunch of quality bolted lines. Otherwise, it can be like a vacation gym.
Some of the most classic routes here are Dragonslayer, 5.9 trad, just above the monobridge; Family, 11c sport, right side of the lane; Reach For The Sky, 11b sport, back of the lane; Heping, 10c sport, left side of the lane; Golden Gate, 5.8 sport, right side of Bulletin Board; Sky Ladder, 10b sport, left side of Bulletin Board. Most of these sport routes can also be climbed at least partially on trad gear.
Beware of the bolts you are clipping here, as this area contains the oldest stainless steel bolts and one of the most corrosive micro-environments at Long Dong.
Getting There
Approach from North Parking Area at Hemei Village. Follow shoreline trail through Puffer's Pass and past The Clocktower. Rock-hop and scramble until you get to The Traverse. Once you have crossed this, you have arrived at Long Lane. Approach time ~20 minutes.
Rain & Shade
All routes get wet in the rain. Long Arete dries quickly, but the Bulletin Board and the Lane proper seep after long periods of rain.
The Lane itself is shaded from 8am-10am, comes back into the sun from 11am-12pm, then goes back into the shade. Bulletin Board goes into the shade around 12pm as well. All other routes are in the sun until late in the afternoon.
The Lane itself is shaded from 8am-10am, comes back into the sun from 11am-12pm, then goes back into the shade. Bulletin Board goes into the shade around 12pm as well. All other routes are in the sun until late in the afternoon.
Classic Climbing Routes at Long Lane
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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Guidebooks (2)
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