Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 212 total · 3/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Oct 27, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

At the back of the lane. Climb up to a perch below a seriously overhanging face. Pull through this on huge jugs to just below the v-groove exit in the roof. Set yourself up then make a cruxy throw to a jug in the groove. Keep your feet pasted, then find a way to layback up to the horizontal above. Step out right, then back left on an incredible undercling flake (protect here), then up to a thin slopey rail. A fall before the crux clip could be painful without the intermediate cam placement, hence the PG13 rating. Pull up to the ledge above through any number of cruxy combinations. Catch another breather before the final sequence up the slightly overhanging orange wall. A proud send.

Location

At the back of the lane, up the face between the arete and the dihedral. Just outside the Birth Canal.

Protection

Titanium (2016/17), 1" piece (.5 C4)

Photos

Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
if youre a shorter climber get someone taller to put up the draws for you or risk take a long, scary(but probably safe) whipper if you blow the crux without the clip.

Whatever you do do NOT put gear in the big undercling flake before the crux to shorten the runout - it will guarantee you a fall straight into the diagonal roof! Feb 2, 2014
BrianWS  
Never sent this one... It's a tough, full value 5.11. The first time I gave it an honest attempt was in full summer sun, and thought I was going to die a hot, sweaty death. Feb 15, 2015
John Martin2
Salt Lake City, UT
John Martin2   Salt Lake City, UT
This was one of my favorite climbs at Long Dong. A fun juggy roof with a big move to get out and then even better face/slab climbing. The bolt past the undercling was a little reachy and Im 185cm, but I was able to get a tricam in the undercling which reduced the risk of a dicey fall. Definitely easier when the sun is off it Jul 8, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11b
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11b
The bolt protecting the crux needs to be moved, plain and simple. I've done the route with and without the cam placement and personally I felt better making the clip with the cam there. You should communicate with your belayer about what is going to happen at that part and have them ready to give a soft catch if you skip the placement or, if you're working it and have the cam in, to keep you short before you make the next clip. You are definitely less likely to hit the diagonal roof if falling before the crux clip with the cam in unless you have a huge loop of slack out. I didn't find the clipping hold to be that bad, but it would be better for most if the bolt were lower. Feb 13, 2017
Thefryman Fryland
Chicago, IL
  5.11b
Thefryman Fryland   Chicago, IL
  5.11b
Awesome route. I’m 177cm and thought it was G clipping the crux bolt. Jul 22, 2018