Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 127 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Mar 5, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

To start up the featureless slab, use shallow jams and layback until you can reach bigger holds and clip the first bolt. Cruise through a few moves on big holds and horizontals, until you have to make a delicate sidestep, and finally pull off a tiny but positive feature to get up into the dihedral. A final precarious move places you at the anchors. There isn't much of a stance here...

Location

Head up into the dark alley above the monobridge. This route is the last route on the right before you reach the corner containing Long Dihedral.

Protection

316 steel (2005)
One Ti bolt in anchor (2014)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11a
I was originally told this was a 5.9. After climbing it, I thought solid 5.10. The new book says .11a. It's somewhere in the ballpark of those three numbers. May 15, 2012
iamsam91  
 
I think this is a great 11 to start in, it's quite short and has a few rests.. Although it may be a bit soft for its grade, it's a solid, and technical climb that pretty enjoyable May 29, 2015
Elvis Leg
Taipei, TW
 
Elvis Leg   Taipei, TW
 
A beta intensive finish, but once unlocked the route feels easier than 11a, most likely a 10+. A good route for people who are trying to break into the 5.11 range. Jul 31, 2018