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Routes in (3) Long Lane

A Dream of White Dragons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dragonslayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Family S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fear Only Fear Itself S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fireman's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Gate Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Golden Gate Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guava Banana T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heping S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inconceivable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lane Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long Lane Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plausible S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocket Overhang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated G S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Reach for the Sky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Renai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhino Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Ladder Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyhook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upon A Painted Ocean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virtues On A Street Sign S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Xinyi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zhongxiao S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 59 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Mar 5, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

To start up the featureless slab, use shallow jams and layback until you can reach bigger holds and clip the first bolt. Cruise through a few moves on big holds and horizontals, until you have to make a delicate sidestep, and finally pull off a tiny but positive feature to get up into the dihedral. A final precarious move places you at the anchors. There isn't much of a stance here...

Location

Head up into the dark alley above the monobridge. This route is the last route on the right before you reach the corner containing Long Dihedral.

Protection

316 steel (2005)
One Ti bolt in anchor (2014)

Photos

iamsam91  
 
I think this is a great 11 to start in, it's quite short and has a few rests.. Although it may be a bit soft for its grade, it's a solid, and technical climb that pretty enjoyable May 29, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
I was originally told this was a 5.9. After climbing it, I thought solid 5.10. The new book says .11a. It's somewhere in the ballpark of those three numbers. May 15, 2012