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Routes in (3) Long Lane

A Dream of White Dragons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dragonslayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Family S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fear Only Fear Itself S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fireman's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Gate Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Golden Gate Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guava Banana T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heping S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inconceivable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lane Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long Lane Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plausible S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocket Overhang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated G S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Reach for the Sky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Renai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhino Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Ladder S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sky Ladder Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyhook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upon A Painted Ocean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virtues On A Street Sign S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Xinyi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zhongxiao S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 77 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Oct 29, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

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Description

The crux is getting off the ground. Place a piece as high as you can reach, then high-step and lieback-jam to establish yourself in the crack. Follow this semi-sustained bit, trying not to cheat when it turns into a bit of a rampy dihedral. Then you're on a ledge big enough to sleep a small army. Continue up towards the orange face split by an obvious, slightly overhanging crack. Using face holds and jams, send this short bit of sweetness until you're below the belay ledge. Pop some gear, mantel up (5.8), and you're done.

Location

Dead center of Long Arete

Protection

Gear to 2"
316 steel (2011)

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