Long Lane Loose
Actually quite a nice route. Definitely harder than 5.8 as the guidebook says. Get some good gear in the horizontals at the start and then head into the crux, wide stemming with small holds, up to committing sidepull then to a thin ledge (small cam). The rest is enjoyable, easier climbing on big cracks and ledges. Didn't see any loose rock, as mentioned in the guidebook. No anchor bolts at the top. 2 & 3 BD cams for trad anchor. Belay from a gorgeous ledge overlooking Long Lane with the ocean in the background. To descend, traverse over to the new anchors for Reach for the Sky or walk over to Dragonfly to rap.