Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Two Teeth
Page Views: 118 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 29, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Start up a really fun balancy sequence on very atypical-LD holds. Move into a juggy sequence to an often-moist horizontal. From here you can easily step right to join Plausible. Otherwise, make a long and accurate throw to the next horizontal - this is very difficult to do statically, and has foiled many an onsight attempt. Pull past this and into the rest of the next-door route, making one last cruxy move before the anchor.

Location

Middle of Bulletin Board

Protection

316 steel (2005)

Photos

BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
To climb this at 5.11, you need to eliminate use of obvious holds -- that is, avoid skirting out 3 feet left or right of the crux. If you climb the natural line, which follows the bolts safely, it's far easier and still very fun. Nov 1, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11a
There is one short-dynamic or long-static move at the 6th bolt. This route is squeezed within a foot of Sky Ladder to the left and Plausible to the right. However, this is a completely independent and unique route. If you step left or right at the crux, you are avoiding the best move. It's a very beta-intensive move, making the route a proud on-sight for any climber. The route joins Plausible above the crux. Nov 3, 2013