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Routes in (3) Long Lane

A Dream of White Dragons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dragonslayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Family S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fear Only Fear Itself S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fireman's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Gate Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Golden Gate Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guava Banana T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heping S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inconceivable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lane Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long Lane Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plausible S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocket Overhang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated G S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Reach for the Sky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Renai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhino Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Ladder Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyhook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upon A Painted Ocean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virtues On A Street Sign S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Xinyi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zhongxiao S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Two Teeth
Page Views: 70 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 29, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Start up a really fun balancy sequence on very atypical-LD holds. Move into a juggy sequence to an often-moist horizontal. From here you can easily step right to join Plausible. Otherwise, make a long and accurate throw to the next horizontal - this is very difficult to do statically, and has foiled many an onsight attempt. Pull past this and into the rest of the next-door route, making one last cruxy move before the anchor.

Location

Middle of Bulletin Board

Protection

316 steel (2005)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
There is one short-dynamic or long-static move at the 6th bolt. This route is squeezed within a foot of Sky Ladder to the left and Plausible to the right. However, this is a completely independent and unique route. If you step left or right at the crux, you are avoiding the best move. It's a very beta-intensive move, making the route a proud on-sight for any climber. The route joins Plausible above the crux. Nov 3, 2013
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
To climb this at 5.11, you need to eliminate use of obvious holds -- that is, avoid skirting out 3 feet left or right of the crux. If you climb the natural line, which follows the bolts safely, it's far easier and still very fun. Nov 1, 2013