Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (3) Long Lane

A Dream of White Dragons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dragonslayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Family S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fear Only Fear Itself S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fireman's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Gate Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Golden Gate Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guava Banana T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heping S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inconceivable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lane Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long Lane Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plausible S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocket Overhang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated G S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Reach for the Sky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Renai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhino Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Ladder Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyhook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upon A Painted Ocean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virtues On A Street Sign S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Xinyi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zhongxiao S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Baile Huang, Ta-Chi Wang ('05)
Page Views: 61 total, 1/month
Shared By: greg k on Mar 23, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

yet another bolted weakness! never fear, you can skip all of those unsightly bolts that demarcate this fun route with very inspiring gear.
i never found the 11c moveĀ… one could perhaps turn it into an 11c, heck i bet if you're skilled enough you could turn it into a 14, but it seems that it would require quite a bit of contrivance.

Location

on right side of long lane's bulletin board (approx. 2 m. left of long lane entrance). shares start with rhino dihedral

Protection

standard rack.
316 steel (2005)

Lead bolts disappear after the 2nd roof

Photos

- No Photos -
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
This route is described as though climbing the bottom half of Plausible, pulling the roof, then continuing up the left side of the face. The initial slab is really easy, and all routes were FA'd without bolts on this section. At the roof, you can plug some gear and pull it directly (10+, airy), or just step left following Plausible, then once above the roof step back right and follow obvious weaknesses to the top of the wall. The grade must be for continuing up the face after the roof, which may or may not be how it was FA'd... but if it was, it's basically a very brief bolted boulder problem 30 feet off the deck.

Weird. Nov 10, 2015
BrianWS  
The first ascensionist is very, very short (although damn strong!). The grade may reflect her need for extra movement or inability to reach the opposing wall for stems.
The "11c" crux is if you climb the route as an eliminate - I believe it requires you to take the final tiered roof directly, with no stemming out right. The "true" grade is probably in the hard 5.10 range.

Regarding the bolts: different strokes, different folks etc. The local bolting ethics are a bit different than in those the US, especially since development ramped up in the early 2000's. Mar 26, 2014