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Routes in (3) Long Lane

A Dream of White Dragons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dragonslayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Family S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fear Only Fear Itself S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fireman's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Gate Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Golden Gate Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guava Banana T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heping S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inconceivable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lane Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long Lane Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plausible S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocket Overhang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated G S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Reach for the Sky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Renai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhino Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Ladder Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyhook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upon A Painted Ocean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virtues On A Street Sign S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Xinyi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zhongxiao S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 68 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Apr 3, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Start up the obvious crack on the north side of the mono bridge, two meters left of the start for "Dream of White Dragons." Easy hand jams and face holds lead to a scramble up to the overhang of jumbled flakes. Pump up this to the roof, and duck left, surmounting the ledge. Plug a #1 (probably with a long sling) in the higher of parallel horizontal cracks, sack up, and lean out over open air. When you can reach the horn around the corner, swing a foot up for a bomber heel hook or high step. Finish on easy jams to a weird anchor setup.

Location [Suggest Change]

Approach for Long Lane. Start up the crack closest to the north side of the mono bridge, furthest left on the Pacific-oriented face.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Gear to 2"
316 steel (2011)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
There is a slightly harder start just above the monobridge. This climbs a thin juggy flake that joins with the route about 25 feet up. It is definitely a more enjoyable start. The book describes this as 10c, but it is 10a at most, though protection is a little tricky down low. Mar 22, 2015

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