Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 94 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Apr 3, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Start up the obvious crack on the north side of the mono bridge, two meters left of the start for "Dream of White Dragons." Easy hand jams and face holds lead to a scramble up to the overhang of jumbled flakes. Pump up this to the roof, and duck left, surmounting the ledge. Plug a #1 (probably with a long sling) in the higher of parallel horizontal cracks, sack up, and lean out over open air. When you can reach the horn around the corner, swing a foot up for a bomber heel hook or high step. Finish on easy jams to a weird anchor setup.

Location

Approach for Long Lane. Start up the crack closest to the north side of the mono bridge, furthest left on the Pacific-oriented face.

Protection

Gear to 2"
316 steel (2011)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9
There is a slightly harder start just above the monobridge. This climbs a thin juggy flake that joins with the route about 25 feet up. It is definitely a more enjoyable start. The book describes this as 10c, but it is 10a at most, though protection is a little tricky down low. Mar 22, 2015
Elvis Leg
Taipei, TW
 
Elvis Leg   Taipei, TW
 
This route definitely deserves 3 stars. Really enjoyable crack for the first 20 feet with plenty of good stances for placing gear. Some really fun and committing high steps or heel hooks midway through the route and a slightly technical finish. Relatively good 'no handed' gear placements but you will need to run it out between pieces. Single rack is enough, no nuts needed, two bolt anchor. Jul 31, 2018