Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 253 total · 5/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Feb 14, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Low angle, easyish climbing past one or two bolts brings you to a very comfortable stance, where the route shifts to slightly overhanging. Power through sloping holds and small vertical seams for about two bolts, and the difficulty eases considerably until the anchors.
The hard climbing is short, stout, and very fun, and the rock quality is very good. Add a few letters to the grade in humid conditions!

Location

On the right side of Long Lane. Starts right of Pocket Overhang.

Protection

316 steel (2005)

Photos

BrianWS
  5.11
BrianWS  
  5.11
A good route, but didn't seem to get much attention. Climbed with Milk or Wiktor, 2009ish. Feb 14, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11+
This route is on you from the first bolt. Use open holds and crimps with a specific sequence through a slight overhang for several moves until you snag a pebbly rail. From here you will climb three more sections of fun 5.10 broken up by ledges - not so trivial after such a pumpy start unless you really milk the rests. Fairly long and continuous by LD standards.

Bolts are 316 stainless steel from 2005 that have seen better days. 10-15 bolts including anchors. Jun 9, 2015
Andy Riley
Yangon, MM
 
Andy Riley   Yangon, MM  
 
Guidebook says .11c. It felt harder than that to me, but conditions were very hot and humid. Great Route, after the crux there are several places to ease the pump. Jul 4, 2015
Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
A very good route that is often overlooked. Recommended for 5.12 climbers and above, as the 5.11 sequence is rather tricky to figure out. Feb 11, 2017
BrianWS
  5.11
BrianWS  
  5.11
Nah, I sent this well before I sent any "real" LD 5.12s. With the right beta and good conditions, a 5.11 climber would be fine on this route.

That being said, it is doesn't have (as I recall...) any of the ultra bomber rests that most 12- lines have at LD, often just before the crux. A very good line regardless of grade or difficulty. Feb 11, 2017