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Routes in (3) Long Lane

A Dream of White Dragons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dragonslayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Family S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fear Only Fear Itself S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fireman's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Gate Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Golden Gate Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guava Banana T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heping S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inconceivable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lane Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long Lane Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plausible S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocket Overhang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated G S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Reach for the Sky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Renai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhino Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Ladder Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyhook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upon A Painted Ocean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virtues On A Street Sign S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Xinyi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zhongxiao S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 210 total, 6/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Feb 14, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Low angle, easyish climbing past one or two bolts brings you to a very comfortable stance, where the route shifts to slightly overhanging. Power through sloping holds and small vertical seams for about two bolts, and the difficulty eases considerably until the anchors.
The hard climbing is short, stout, and very fun, and the rock quality is very good. Add a few letters to the grade in humid conditions!

Location

On the right side of Long Lane. Starts right of Pocket Overhang.

Protection

316 steel (2005)

Photos

BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
Nah, I sent this well before I sent any "real" LD 5.12s. With the right beta and good conditions, a 5.11 climber would be fine on this route.

That being said, it is doesn't have (as I recall...) any of the ultra bomber rests that most 12- lines have at LD, often just before the crux. A very good line regardless of grade or difficulty. Feb 11, 2017
Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
A very good route that is often overlooked. Recommended for 5.12 climbers and above, as the 5.11 sequence is rather tricky to figure out. Feb 11, 2017
Andrew Riley
Yangon, Myanmar
 
Andrew Riley   Yangon, Myanmar
 
Guidebook says .11c. It felt harder than that to me, but conditions were very hot and humid. Great Route, after the crux there are several places to ease the pump. Jul 4, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11+
This route is on you from the first bolt. Use open holds and crimps with a specific sequence through a slight overhang for several moves until you snag a pebbly rail. From here you will climb three more sections of fun 5.10 broken up by ledges - not so trivial after such a pumpy start unless you really milk the rests. Fairly long and continuous by LD standards.

Bolts are 316 stainless steel from 2005 that have seen better days. 10-15 bolts including anchors. Jun 9, 2015
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
A good route, but didn't seem to get much attention. Climbed with Milk or Wiktor, 2009ish. Feb 14, 2015