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Routes in (8) Golden Valley

Around the Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aus der Traum S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black & Tan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Faced Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conditional Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Convenient S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragon's Nose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dripping Dragon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Love Taiwan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inconvenient S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kevlar Vest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Never S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nugget T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Fine Sunny Day T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quartzriss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stay on the Dragon's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stephen's Size 13 Shoes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
String Bikini T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Teamwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thierry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Very Inconvenient S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White-Faced Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Deng-Rong Chang 7/03
Page Views: 408 total, 8/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 25, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

BrianWS
This is the extension to Inconvenient, which adds a few bolts of climbing and a second set of anchors. Continue past the first anchor up the sustained, thin face. No moves in the V4 or 5.12 range, but there aren't any of the sinker horizontals or jugs for rests that appear throughout the lower portion of the route.

Realistically a mid to hard 5.11.

Location

Just outside the Bikini Cave, on the east-facing orange wall. Climbs through the golden block and into the darker stuff above.

Protection

316 steel (2012)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
This route, if climbed with the intuitive holds available, is not a 5.12a either at Long Dong or anywhere else. If Nowhere Man were the benchmark 12a, then this is definitely easier, more like Black-Faced Man or First Corner. Definitely not as hard as Big Rock Falling or Coach Demonstrates. Mar 4, 2017
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
Additionally, you can campus with only your left hand, middle finger off, foreskin jams optional, and wearing a blindfold to make it 15+ ;)


Awesome route, no matter if you choose to eliminate obvious weaknesses or features. Mar 3, 2017
Danger
Taipei City
 
Danger   Taipei City
 
After talking to some folks and seeing people climb it in different ways, I've learned that just like several other routes at LD, there are multiple ways to climb this route.

Basically, the differences boil down to how you climb the last two bolts:

1. Everything is on, including stemming out to the right wall. (11d)

2. Everything is on but no stemming out to the right wall. My understanding is that this is the way it's "supposed" to be climbed for the 12a grade. (11d/12a)

3. Crimp up the face from the 2nd to last bolt, avoiding the huge pinch to your right and the good pocket higher up and to the right. This is significantly harder than 1 or 2 and clocks in at 12a/12b Mar 3, 2017
Danger
Taipei City
 
Danger   Taipei City
 
A nice little sport route, that may or may not be 12a... Nov 25, 2014