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Routes in (8) Golden Valley

Around the Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aus der Traum S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black & Tan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Faced Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conditional Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Convenient S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragon's Nose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dripping Dragon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Love Taiwan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inconvenient S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kevlar Vest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Never S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nugget T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Fine Sunny Day T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quartzriss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stay on the Dragon's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stephen's Size 13 Shoes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
String Bikini T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Teamwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thierry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Very Inconvenient S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White-Faced Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 58 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Mar 18, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Start up easy ground to a big horizontal that cuts through the whole wall. Continue up blocky steps to the vertical wall divided by a fractured crack system with some vegetation. Send this crack through a series of sustained moves to another horizontal. Climb easy blocks to a ledge. From here, step to the left side and continue up wide crack... OR get up into the thin dihedral and punch out the roof... OR step right at the roof, up and out the other side, and then back left along a horizontal. All routes end at the top of a pillar. Belay up second from trad anchor, then belay the traverse to the descent anchors 30 feet up and left.

Location

Start in the middle of the Black Wall. Look up and find the outline of Taiwan etched by cracks in the black-orange stone halfway up. This route goes up the right side of the Taiwan.

Protection

Gear to 2"
316 steel (2013)

Photos

top anchor installed in June 2013! May 8, 2014