Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||T. Bubb, K Chen, 11/1/09|
|Page Views:||851 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 11, 2009|
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details
Accelerated corrosion that targets stainless steel bolts (SCC) has caused multiple failures, including both anchor bolts on a route that a climber was being lowered off of. Please read the BOLTS note on the main page. You can also help the cause by visiting the Bivy during your stay and giving QX some reds, whites, or if youre feeling generous, some BLUES!
DescriptionA very nice route that will be even nicer when it cleans up a bit. There are still some small loose chips of rock on it and a few sharp locks and jams that will clean up.
Start up as for String Bikini, climbing perhaps 30 feet to an undercling flake on the right with a 2" crack. Protect the crack and add a long sling and look left into a corner system with a thin crack in it. Stem out and go up and left, placing some very small cams for protection. Pass the somewhat insecure crux (tips) to reach better locks and jams (sharp) and place a larger camming unit at a sharp jam. This jam is the one for which the route is named, as there are quartz points in it and one must position carefully to avoid cuts... or wear a Kevlar Vest.
Continue up the corner for 30' and onto a sloping ledge, where you can reach out right to place gear in a horizontal under a roof, then undercling out under that roof (psychological if pumped, but not actually difficult) into another crack and corner system, and up to the higher anchors on String Bikini. There are some final moves worth noting that are protected by a hand-sized cam, so save one.
To note- this route is not easily Top-roped due to a very sharp flake below the anchor, so belaying up top is a good idea. Alternately, do as I did on the FA and put a piece of clothing over the flake and clip it in to "pad" the flake so you don't chew on the rope if the second has a hard time of it..
The grade assigned is questionable. I believe the climb to be a bit harder than String Bikini, but that is hand size dependant... both routes might be somewhere between 10c and 11a depending on the grading scale used.