Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||T. Bubb, K Chen, 11/1/09|
|Page Views:||1,235 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 11, 2009|
Continue up the corner for 30' and onto a sloping ledge, where you can reach out right to place gear in a horizontal under a roof, then undercling out under that roof (psychological if pumped, but not actually difficult) into another crack and corner system, and up to the higher anchors on String Bikini. There are some final moves worth noting that are protected by a hand-sized cam, so save one.
To note- this route is not easily Top-roped due to a very sharp flake below the anchor, so belaying up top is a good idea. Alternately, do as I did on the FA and put a piece of clothing over the flake and clip it in to "pad" the flake so you don't chew on the rope if the second has a hard time of it..
The grade assigned is questionable. I believe the climb to be a bit harder than String Bikini, but that is hand size dependant... both routes might be somewhere between 10c and 11a depending on the grading scale used.
The route is climbed on Gear to 2"
Added bolts came later, and sadly instead of pulled were apparently replaced with Titanium ones in 2017.
That's the wrong kind of maintenance, IMO.