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Routes in (8) Golden Valley

Around the Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aus der Traum S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black & Tan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Faced Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conditional Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Convenient S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragon's Nose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dripping Dragon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Love Taiwan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inconvenient S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kevlar Vest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Never S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nugget T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Fine Sunny Day T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quartzriss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stay on the Dragon's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stephen's Size 13 Shoes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
String Bikini T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Teamwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thierry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Very Inconvenient S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White-Faced Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Tzu-Kai Chao 5/03
Page Views: 98 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 25, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Start up a vertical, chunky face with awkward but fun movement. Mantel onto a narrow ledge, and continue up the slabby face to the first overhang. Pass it on the left. Continue up the steepening face and stay left when bolts appear to the right (Convenient, 5.9 bomb). Set yourself for some long pulls on good crimps to decent horizontals. This sequence is continuous, fun, and can be done several different ways that all involve airy moves. Anchor consists of two staggered bolts... you could always continue up two more bolts to the anchor of Very Inconvenient, which continues the clean pumpy fun.

Location

Just outside the Bikini Cave, on the east-facing orange wall. Climbs through the golden block split by horizontals 40 feet up.

Protection

316 steel (2012)

Photos

BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
I believe I led this route sometime in 2010. The climbing and stone are both excellent on this one, especially for the extension (if this is the same route) that goes past the first anchors.

Fun route, with some tough pulls between good horizontals. Watch for bats!

(Edited due to up-to-date bolting info) Nov 26, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11a
And now that I check my notes, I see that it was completely rebolted in July 2013. Nov 27, 2013
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
Aha, never mind then.

It's probably safe to assume that all the better quality and easily accessible sport (and trad!) routes got a healthy rebolting/retrobolting since I left. Nov 28, 2013

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