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Routes in (8) Golden Valley

Around the Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aus der Traum S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black & Tan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Faced Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conditional Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Convenient S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragon's Nose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dripping Dragon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Love Taiwan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inconvenient S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kevlar Vest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Never S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nugget T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Fine Sunny Day T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quartzriss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stay on the Dragon's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stephen's Size 13 Shoes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
String Bikini T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Teamwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thierry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Very Inconvenient S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White-Faced Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Yum-Yum, '91
Page Views: 72 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 29, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Start around a jumble of boulders, with a large platform up and to your right. Get up into the coral-like rock however you wish, and pull simple moves up into the roof. Pulling over the roof is easy, using jugs in the horizontal. Try to clip from this. The bolt sits almost flat above the triangular block, so use a long draw or a sling. Getting around the lip is the crux: it can be done a number of ways, all of them involving a balancy sequence. One way is to throw for a pebble at the top of the block, then step left. Prepare yourself for an overhanging sequence on big rails that is pumpy and athletic though straightforward. A few big final moves and you're at the horizontal from which you can clip the anchor.

Location

The left side of the "Legend Wall." Just right of the black streak of Black Magic Woman and left of the golden/orange overhanging arete of Golden Legend.

Protection

316 steel (2006/2013)

Photos

Danger
Taipei City
  5.11b
Danger   Taipei City
  5.11b
This one is quite nice, and a solid 11b.

Awkward clip at the third bolt - best for someone tall to put up the draws. Mar 3, 2017

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