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Routes in (8) Golden Valley

Around the Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aus der Traum S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black & Tan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Faced Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conditional Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Convenient S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragon's Nose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dripping Dragon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Love Taiwan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inconvenient S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kevlar Vest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Never S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nugget T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Fine Sunny Day T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quartzriss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stay on the Dragon's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stephen's Size 13 Shoes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
String Bikini T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Teamwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thierry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Very Inconvenient S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White-Faced Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 76 total, 2/month
Shared By: Danger on Oct 5, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Start with easy 5th class scrambling to the ledge. From here many people go inland and come out again, but it's probably more by-the book to flip the overhang - no worries it's quite easy.

Staring up the dark, rough face of the wall is intimidating as the holds seem insufficient, but in fact much of the climbing is done on the arete, which hides surprisingly good holds at each horizontal crack.

Unlike the rest of golden valley the rock on this prow and the dark face especially is incredibly rough conglomerate with hundreds of pebble and microfeatures. Feet are good - amazingly so, and even when the rock looks blank, you can often step on "nothing" and have it stick.

The consensus grade is 11d, but with long reaches between good holds, the difficulty of this climb can vary quite a bit depending on height.

Location

The darker face of the White Faced Man/Black Faced Man prow.

Protection

316 steel (2013)
Last lead bolt replaced with titanium in 2016

Photos

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BBarryAK
  5.12a
BBarryAK  
  5.12a
Fantastic line with many interesting moves that can't be found anywhere other than arĂȘte features. Reachy crux move around the 5th bolt bumps this to 12a in my book, where taller climbers might also find a hard balance move near the top. Oct 24, 2016