Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (8) Golden Valley

Around the Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aus der Traum S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black & Tan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Faced Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conditional Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Convenient S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragon's Nose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dripping Dragon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Love Taiwan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inconvenient S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kevlar Vest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Never S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nugget T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Fine Sunny Day T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quartzriss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stay on the Dragon's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stephen's Size 13 Shoes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
String Bikini T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Teamwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thierry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Very Inconvenient S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White-Faced Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: D.Saenger & E.Boehm, 7/00
Page Views: 58 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 29, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Start up a ramp in front of or below a thrashed pandanus plant. Clip whatever bolts present themselves - this part can barely be called climbing. Instead of bolting the route through the juggy roof, Wojtek decided to put two bolts within two feet of each other and about four feet below and left of the third. Step up onto the big tiered ledge below the Yosemite Crack dihedral, runner the bolts, then balance out right. Once you have matched the rail, move around the corner, then pull past the bolt on crimps and perhaps a hidden jug. Once you've hit the horizontal above this, the rest of the route is a slabby cruise. Notice the 2-3 foot bolt spacing as you pass them. Just below the anchors, stay on the arete without using the broken crack on the right for a more aesthetic, exposed finish.

Location

Dragonboat Wall, between Yosemite Crack and Dragon's Back

Protection

316 steel (2012)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
Generally, the Rebolt team did a good job. Some might argue that they bolted routes that didn't need to be bolted. This wall however was bolted by Wojtek Gierlotka, with his own money. Most routes have bolts every 2-3 feet, and none of the old bolts were removed. We are working to fix this now... but cutting the new bolts is a waste of battery life, so they shall remain... for now. Nov 26, 2013
BrianWS  
Holy sheeit...

This is a new (dubious) record for LD. A 55 ft climb only needs 5 bolts. Even that is well bolted by most standards, especially given the apparent potential for lots of gear placements. But 11 bolts??? Ridiculous.

I understand the lack of a "if it goes on gear, don't bolt it" ethic in Taiwan, but this is just absurd. And expensive! Nov 26, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
In my opinion, this route is completely over-bolted.

The 1st bolt is either five feet off the ground or at your feet, depending on where you start, which is on a ramp anyway.

The 2nd bolt leads you onto a platform instead of pulling through the obvious juggy overhang.

The 3rd and 4th bolts are two feet apart, can be clipped from the same stance, and must be runnered to avoid serious rope drag at the crux, which might not keep you off the ledge if you peel.

The 5th bolt is fine. But you're now 20 feet off the ground clipping the 5th bolt. WTF.

The 6th and 7th bolts are two feet apart. Skip one.

The 8th and 9th bolts are on super-easy terrain. Auto-skip.

The 10th and 11th bolts are two feet apart and can be clipped from the same stance. Skip one.

Anchors.

Out of a total of eleven bolts, only five are necessary. Nov 25, 2013