Type: Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: D.Saenger & E.Boehm, 7/00
Page Views: 385 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 29, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

Start up a ramp in front of or below a thrashed pandanus plant. Clip whatever bolts present themselves - this part can barely be called climbing. Instead of bolting the route through the juggy roof, Wojtek decided to put two bolts within two feet of each other and about four feet below and left of the third. Step up onto the big tiered ledge below the Yosemite Crack dihedral, runner the bolts, then balance out right. Once you have matched the rail, move around the corner, then pull past the bolt on crimps and perhaps a hidden jug. Once you've hit the horizontal above this, the rest of the route is a slabby cruise. Notice the 2-3 foot bolt spacing as you pass them. Just below the anchors, stay on the arete without using the broken crack on the right for a more aesthetic, exposed finish.

Location

Dragonboat Wall, between Yosemite Crack and Dragon's Back

Protection

316 steel (2012)

Photos