Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: D.Saenger & E.Boehm, 7/00
Page Views: 79 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 29, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

Start up a ramp in front of or below a thrashed pandanus plant. Clip whatever bolts present themselves - this part can barely be called climbing. Instead of bolting the route through the juggy roof, Wojtek decided to put two bolts within two feet of each other and about four feet below and left of the third. Step up onto the big tiered ledge below the Yosemite Crack dihedral, runner the bolts, then balance out right. Once you have matched the rail, move around the corner, then pull past the bolt on crimps and perhaps a hidden jug. Once you've hit the horizontal above this, the rest of the route is a slabby cruise. Notice the 2-3 foot bolt spacing as you pass them. Just below the anchors, stay on the arete without using the broken crack on the right for a more aesthetic, exposed finish.

Location

Dragonboat Wall, between Yosemite Crack and Dragon's Back

Protection

316 steel (2012)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11a
In my opinion, this route is completely over-bolted.

The 1st bolt is either five feet off the ground or at your feet, depending on where you start, which is on a ramp anyway.

The 2nd bolt leads you onto a platform instead of pulling through the obvious juggy overhang.

The 3rd and 4th bolts are two feet apart, can be clipped from the same stance, and must be runnered to avoid serious rope drag at the crux, which might not keep you off the ledge if you peel.

The 5th bolt is fine. But you're now 20 feet off the ground clipping the 5th bolt. WTF.

The 6th and 7th bolts are two feet apart. Skip one.

The 8th and 9th bolts are on super-easy terrain. Auto-skip.

The 10th and 11th bolts are two feet apart and can be clipped from the same stance. Skip one.

Anchors.

Out of a total of eleven bolts, only five are necessary. Nov 25, 2013
BrianWS  
Holy sheeit...

This is a new (dubious) record for LD. A 55 ft climb only needs 5 bolts. Even that is well bolted by most standards, especially given the apparent potential for lots of gear placements. But 11 bolts??? Ridiculous.

I understand the lack of a "if it goes on gear, don't bolt it" ethic in Taiwan, but this is just absurd. And expensive! Nov 26, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11a
Generally, the Rebolt team did a good job. Some might argue that they bolted routes that didn't need to be bolted. This wall however was bolted by Wojtek Gierlotka, with his own money. Most routes have bolts every 2-3 feet, and none of the old bolts were removed. We are working to fix this now... but cutting the new bolts is a waste of battery life, so they shall remain... for now. Nov 26, 2013