Golden Valley Rock Climbing
|GPS:||25.107, 121.923 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 11, 2009|
This area has a high concentration of sport routes and can be quite popular as a result. It is broken up into three general sectors: the Dragonboat Wall, the Legend Wall, and the Black Wall. The routes are most intuitively viewed from Right to Left.
The Dragonboat Wall is the first wall you encounter at the bottom of the Golden Valley Trail. It is north-facing, and thus enters the shade in the late morning and remains shaded for most if not all of the day. Route grades range from 5.5-5.11a here, both trad (Yosemite Crack) and sport (Teamwork) of low- to mid-quality. This wall is often crowded with gym climbers and classes. It was entirely rebolted by Wojtek in 2012.
Betweeen here and the amphitheater is a short tower with a fun, easy solo to the top, as well as some mediocre trad routes up the jumbled, orange, east-facing wall. Boulder hop between these two and turn the corner...
The Amphitheater. One of the most breathtaking places at Long Dong. If standing with your back to the ocean, the Bikini Cave is on your right, the Legend Wall straight in front of you, and the Black Wall to your left. The cave can provide shade on hot days. On the right side of the cave is the classic hand crack String Bikini. A few hard sport routes crank out the middle and left side. The mostly-clean red-orange-gold wall contains some of Long Dong's most classic sport testpieces, including The Golden Legend, finally freed by Paul Brouard in 2010. Left of this is the ominous black streak down the chimney of Black Magic Woman. The Black Wall is mostly north-facing, and contains many other decent moderate trad routes which ascend the black-changing-to-silver wall, interspersed with some new high-quality sport routes. Eventually you come to a high bench of rock as the cliff turns southward. This leads to the Above the Waves area.
Once down the trail and onto the flat shelf of rock, turn right (south) and head over towards a large amphitheatre of rock. THis is the Golden Valley. This area by it's descriptions contains some sub-formations called "Dragon's Egg" to the right, and "Golden Wall" to the left, out on a shelf where the rock juts out toward the ocean.
Rain & Shade
Dragonboat Wall and Black Wall come into the shade around 10am. All other routes are in the sun until late afternoon.
Classic Climbing Routes at Golden Valley
Days w Precip