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Routes in (8) Golden Valley

Around the Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aus der Traum S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black & Tan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Faced Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conditional Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Convenient S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragon's Nose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dripping Dragon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Love Taiwan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inconvenient S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kevlar Vest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Never S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nugget T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Fine Sunny Day T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quartzriss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stay on the Dragon's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stephen's Size 13 Shoes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
String Bikini T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Teamwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thierry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Very Inconvenient S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White-Faced Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Elevation: 85 ft
GPS: 25.107, 121.923 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,491 total · 41/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball
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The Golden Valley is aptly named, as you will realize upon your first view of the amphitheater. The colors of rock contrast in such striking hues as to make this the perfect backdrop to a fine day for any lover of natural beauty. Grassy patches and flat stone benches allow for napping and picnicking when you need a rest from sending. There are also caves and north-facing walls that provide shade through most of the day, while the eastward aspects of the amphitheater soak up the sun. Swimming here is, unfortunately, quite treacherous in any season due to the strong currents and exposed nature of the shoreline.

This area has a high concentration of sport routes and can be quite popular as a result. It is broken up into three general sectors: the Dragonboat Wall, the Legend Wall, and the Black Wall. The routes are most intuitively viewed from Right to Left.

The Dragonboat Wall is the first wall you encounter at the bottom of the Golden Valley Trail. It is north-facing, and thus enters the shade in the late morning and remains shaded for most if not all of the day. Route grades range from 5.5-5.11a here, both trad (Yosemite Crack) and sport (Teamwork) of low- to mid-quality. This wall is often crowded with gym climbers and classes. It was entirely rebolted by Wojtek in 2012.

Betweeen here and the amphitheater is a short tower with a fun, easy solo to the top, as well as some mediocre trad routes up the jumbled, orange, east-facing wall. Boulder hop between these two and turn the corner...

The Amphitheater. One of the most breathtaking places at Long Dong. If standing with your back to the ocean, the Bikini Cave is on your right, the Legend Wall straight in front of you, and the Black Wall to your left. The cave can provide shade on hot days. On the right side of the cave is the classic hand crack String Bikini. A few hard sport routes crank out the middle and left side. The mostly-clean red-orange-gold wall contains some of Long Dong's most classic sport testpieces, including The Golden Legend, finally freed by Paul Brouard in 2010. Left of this is the ominous black streak down the chimney of Black Magic Woman. The Black Wall is mostly north-facing, and contains many other decent moderate trad routes which ascend the black-changing-to-silver wall, interspersed with some new high-quality sport routes. Eventually you come to a high bench of rock as the cliff turns southward. This leads to the Above the Waves area.

Getting There

Approach Via the Golden Valley trail from either the Central or South Parking areas, as described on the main page for Long Dong Wall.
Once down the trail and onto the flat shelf of rock, turn right (south) and head over towards a large amphitheatre of rock. THis is the Golden Valley. This area by it's descriptions contains some sub-formations called "Dragon's Egg" to the right, and "Golden Wall" to the left, out on a shelf where the rock juts out toward the ocean.

Rain & Shade

All routes get wet in the rain. Dragonboat Wall has minor seepage after a long period of rain. Routes in the Bikini Cave and Black Magic Woman seep for extended periods. Routes around I Love Taiwan also tend to seep for awhile.

Dragonboat Wall and Black Wall come into the shade around 10am. All other routes are in the sun until late afternoon.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Golden Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Very Inconvenient
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Very Inconvenient
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
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