Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (8) Golden Valley

Around the Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aus der Traum S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black & Tan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Faced Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conditional Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Convenient S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragon's Nose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dripping Dragon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Love Taiwan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inconvenient S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kevlar Vest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Never S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nugget T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Fine Sunny Day T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quartzriss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stay on the Dragon's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stephen's Size 13 Shoes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
String Bikini T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Teamwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thierry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Very Inconvenient S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White-Faced Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: EB & DS, '00
Page Views: 64 total, 1/month
Shared By: greg k on Feb 17, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

pull a couple of cruxy moves at the start before ledging out about 15 ft up. continue through blocky section for another 15 ft before enjoying laybacks and jams on flakes to the anchors. gear is plentiful: would be safe trad lead for novice. we did the variation start on the right. left start is easier according to guidebook. (bolts mar the aesthetic of an otherwise pretty weaknessÂ…)

Location

dragon boat wall just left of yosemite crack

Protection

nothing bigger than a red camalot. use same anchor as for yosemite crack.
316 steel (2012)

Photos

- No Photos -
Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
Aus Der Traum - "The Dream is Over" Oct 5, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a
You can start this route from Teamwork and step right, from Yosemite Crack and step left, or boulder straight up the bolt line to the ledge (5.10+).

Continue straight up the obvious hand crack (10-). The long diamond-shaped flake near the top is completely detached, but is wedged into the crack. Don't place gear in it and it should be fine. Feb 18, 2014