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Routes in (8) Golden Valley

Around the Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aus der Traum S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black & Tan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Faced Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic Woman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conditional Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Convenient S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragon's Nose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dripping Dragon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Love Taiwan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inconvenient S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kevlar Vest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Never S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nugget T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Fine Sunny Day T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quartzriss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stay on the Dragon's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stephen's Size 13 Shoes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
String Bikini T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Teamwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thierry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Very Inconvenient S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White-Faced Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 111 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Note: This route seeps badly. If it has rained any amount in the three days prior to the day you want to climb it, reconsider... or just go for it.

This is a pretty good climb with good moves, solid rock, great position, exposure and scenery. Furthermore, the protection is great, so don't let it intimidate you- it is a good route to push your grade on. There is a little of everything on this route- underclings, stemming, jamming, smearing, liebacks and face-climbing etc...

Follow the obvious crack and corner systems to a large undercling flake, traversing right under that to reach a large bulge split by a clean thin-hands jamcrack. A 1.5" - 2" cam or thereabouts protects the crux from below or above. If you will be on-edge gradewise, carry an extra of each of these. Pull through the crack (crux) and head on up and left through a more moderate crack system past an old eye-bolt and onto a ledge with a set of glue-in anchors. These need links and chain added.

As for the grade... The route was originally rated 11c, but people who can jam well or those with small hands may find it significantly easier. The 10d grade reflected here is a contended compromise in ratings that reflects a combination of factors, one of those being that at Long Dong harder cracks are generally over-graded (I thought this one was 10c or 10d, personally).

Location [Suggest Change]

Head on about 200 feet South of where the trail intercepts the flat rockbed. At the far right side of the inset amphitheatre in Golden Valley there is an overhanging, left-facing corner. String Bikini follows the smaller corner and arete system to the outside of that inset.

Protection [Suggest Change]

standard rack to 2" (doubles #1-2)
Titanium (2017)

Photos

Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
This route is climbable even if bikini cave is seeping, because the crux is usually dry, and the sections which get wet are cake if you're climbing trad at this level.

Two additional words of advice: Tape up. Mar 3, 2017

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