Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Herb Laeger & Howard Doyle-1970s
Page Views: 189 total · 3/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 21, 2013
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

#1: Climb the unprotected face (5.7) to a ledge...aim for the small tree on the left. Sling the tree for pro and move up the corner (an overhang is to the left) to another tree you can sling (sizable runout between trees). Continue climbing up on unprotectable, but decent rock, with good holds and some fun moves. You'll probably see the bolts for T&T to your right. Aim for a small overhang with a crack beneath it. Get some good gear at the overhang, then pull it on great holds (crux 1) and move up to a stance at a left-leaning crack, just below the Kauffman-Cardon Ledge. On busy weekends you can build an anchor in the cracks, otherwise move up to the K-C ledge and a two-bolt anchor.

#2: From the K-C ledge climb the wide crack that is left of Bee Sting Corner. Climb straight up to the roof (look for the old pins). Pull the roof (crux 2) on some interesting flakes and move up and left. From this point, the original route continued moving up and left but the rock is absolutely worthless, loose, rotten, hollow and dangerous, lichen-covered crap...so get some decent gear then climb straight up the face and finish to the Bee Sting Corner two-bolt rap anchor.

Rap off or just step up to Lower Broadway Ledge and head to other climbs.

Overall it's a decent line and an alternative on busy weekends. The toughest R section is right off the ground. The rest of the R climbing is on good holds and decent rock. Both cruxes are protectable. If you're comfortable leading Seneca 7's, don't mind being above your gear a ways and are looking for a decent adventure climb, this is a good option. Not for the budding 5.7 leader.

Fall and winter are the best time since the leaves will be off any of the small trees that are around the lower part of P1. Also, as with much of the East Face, be aware of the possibility of bees.

Location

Start on the steep face left of T&T and Don't Think Twice and about 15' right of the dead tree below the Skyline Traverse start ledge. Look for a big arching overhang about 1/3 of the way up the first pitch. The route goes right of this on the corner.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack. Some 48" slings (for the trees) and offset cams are helpful. There are NO bolts on this route (aside from the two anchors you can use) so if you're clipping a bolt, you're off-route, probably too far right and on T&T.

Photos

Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
A good option to avoid the purportedly R-rated first pitch of H&H, which I've never done, is to instead start on T&T, climb past the intermediate anchor, and traverse left at the left leaning crack to aim for the small pine tree on the K-C ledge, immediately below Bee Sting Corner. A gear anchor can be built here in cracks (#0.75-1). The pro was more like PG than R on the second pitch of H&H, so this link up makes for a relatively safe and fun two pitches of 5.7 climbing, or maybe 5.7+ for the second half of P1 of T&T. Personally I found P2 of H&H to be less strenuous and easier on the calves than Bee Sting Corner itself. May 14, 2018