Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Herb Laeger & Howard Doyle-1970s|
|Page Views:||121 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Andy Weinmann on Oct 21, 2013|
|Admins:||Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones|
DescriptionClimb the unprotected face (5.7) to a ledge...aim for the small tree on the left. Sling the tree for pro and move up the corner (an overhang is to the left) to another tree you can sling (sizable runout between trees). Continue climbing up on unprotectable, but decent rock, with good holds and some fun moves. You'll probably see the bolts for T&T to your right. Aim for a small overhang with a crack beneath it. Get some good gear at the overhang, then pull it on great holds (crux 1) and move up to a stance at a left-leaning crack, just below the Kauffman-Cardon Ledge. On busy weekends you can build an anchor in the cracks, otherwise move up to the K-C ledge and a two-bolt anchor.
From the K-C ledge climb the wide crack that is left of Bee Sting Corner. Climb straight up to the roof (look for the old pins). Pull the roof (crux 2) on some interesting flakes and move up and left. From this point, the original route continued moving up and left but the rock is absolutely worthless, loose, rotten, hollow and dangerous, lichen-covered crap...so get some decent gear then climb straight up the face and finish to the Bee Sting Corner two-bolt rap anchor.
Rap off or just step up to Lower Broadway Ledge and head to other climbs.
Overall it's a decent line and an alternative on busy weekends. The toughest R section is right off the ground. The rest of the R climbing is on good holds and decent rock. Both cruxes are protectable. If you're comfortable leading Seneca 7's, don't mind being above your gear a ways and are looking for a decent adventure climb, this is a good option. Not for the budding 5.7 leader.
Fall and winter are the best time since the leaves will be off any of the small trees that are around the lower part of P1. Also, as with much of the East Face, be aware of the possibility of bees.
LocationStart on the steep face left of T&T and Don't Think Twice and about 15' right of the dead tree below the Skyline Traverse start ledge. Look for a big arching overhang about 1/3 of the way up the first pitch. The route goes right of this on the corner.
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