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Routes in Southeast Corner

A Touch Too Much T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Backstage Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bee Sting Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Trivia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cardon's Rib T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Don't Think Twice T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dufty's Popoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
H&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hero Pendulum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Kauffman-Cardon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ladybug T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
M&M T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R&R T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rear Entry T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
S&M S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skylab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyline Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
T&T T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tomato That Ate Cleveland, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Touch and Go T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trouble Ahead, Trouble Behind T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Worrell's Thicket T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: George Livingstone, Arnold Wexler, Andy Kauffman
Page Views: 2,267 total, 30/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Aug 29, 2011
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

From the end of P1 of Kauffman-Cardon, climb the large, left-facing corner. Pull the bulge at the top (crux) and move up to the large ledge with rap rings.

To descend, you can rap from the rings atop Bee Sting Corner. From here with a 60m rope you can rap down to the Kauffman-Cardon ledge and another set of rap rings. From the K-C rings, rap down to a third set of rings about 20' down and to climbers left or to a set of rings close to the tree below Dufty's Popoff. Either of these last two sets will get you to the base.

Caution! From the shuts on Kauffman-Cardon ledge rapping with 60m rope will be really close to reaching the ground...be sure to tie knots in your rope ends and rap to climber's left of the big left-facing corner just below the K-C ledge.

Two 60m ropes tied together will hit the base from Bee Sting Corner.

Alternatively, you can scramble up and over the rocks that will be directly in front of you (west) when topping out Dufty's Popoff or Bee Sting Corner (to the left when you top out on Skyline Traverse). On the other side of these you can walk around to Luncheon Ledge and then either walk all the way down the Stairmaster or to the top of Ecstasy Junior and rap down from there

Location

Kauffman-Cardon ledge; end of P1 of Kauffman-Cardon. This is below Lower Broadway Ledge. You can also access it by climbing Ladybug (quality line), pitch 1 of T&T, pitch 1 of H&H, or Hero Pendulum (scary R route).

Protection

Standard trad rack. You can zip this up if need be. Rap rings at the top.
Frogmen83
  5.7+
Frogmen83  
  5.7+
Rappelled in from the top to the anchor belay station. Fun stemming and a quick short crux with great gear. Oct 20, 2014
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
Underrated Feb 25, 2014
I got to the base of this climb by climbing 1st pitch of Skyline Traverse, then Hero Pendulum (5.5R). As I recall, there were only 2 good pieces of pro on Hero. If you're seconding Hero and fall, you will probably crash into the woods, and end up with more than a few broken bones. But, however you get to Bee Sting, it is a great climb that sucks up the gear! Sep 6, 2012
ajtwoface
  5.8
ajtwoface  
  5.8
Great left facing corner. It is sustained and is stemming the whole way up. Your left leg will get a workout! May 19, 2012